I have a 2003 Landrover SE that has been a money pit. It usually starts with the check engine light and then leads to engine overheating. It looks like I have coolant, that after it overheats, sprays out of the overflow. I have changed the head gaskets 2x to oil leaks and have to replace several times the knock sensors . Is there a known issue with check engine lights and overheating with the 2003 Landrover SE? Is this something I can correct once and for all. Each time I take it in for service I drop $1500 to $2000. I like the thought of keeping it, but just can't afford it anymore. Any advice before I donate it to charity?

 

I'll assume that you have a vehicle that says Land Rover on the hood, on here we call that a Discovery II or a D2.

Odd that you have had to replace knock sensors.

Changing head gaskets at dealer is usually more than $2000. Did you mean valve cover gaskets for oil leaks?

Have you checked for loss of coolant every day at cold start, or at least once a week? You could have a hose leak that is dropping coolant until you overheat.

As for overheating, do you mean that the temp gauge goes above 50%? It is programmed by the factory to point at 50% from about 130F to about 240F. Normal temp should be 190 - 200. A scanner or Ultra Gauge can show you the real temps in digital fashion, no need to go to 230F and think everything is just fine. And certainly no need to go all the way to red temp warning light on (indicating engine has been roasted).

If you hear sounds like water gurgling thru pipes under the dash that is either air (you ned to bleed coolant) or exhaust gas (head gasket) in the system. There is a $60 chemical test for exhaust gas. Changes color.

If you have a coolant leak thru the gasket into cyclinder(s) it can cause misfires and that can trigger the check engine light. What codes (number please) are stored? If you don't have a code reader most auto parts stores will read for free. Write down the numbers and re-post.

You could have a bad coolant cap, which is not holding when system gets up to pressure. Replace cap is cheap.

If overheats only in slow traffic or idle, consider the electric fan not coming on (it should at 212F) - if the fan blades don't spin freely the motor is locking up, may have already blown the fuse for it. The mechanical fan also has a clutch, which is viscous oil coupled. With engine off and cold, spin and release fan by hand, should be stiff, like peanut butter inside. Go maybe 1/4 turn when released. Warm up engine, turn off, repeat spin test. If it turns a whole revolution or freewheels the clutch needs to be replaced, about $60, one for a Chevy 2000 4.3 liter express van, w/o AC is a good cross.

There is a 180F thermostat that will cool things off, carried by a variety of the on-line vendors. Your existing stat with all this work could be plugged up partially with trash.

Last, but not least, is the cracked block. Usually shows up as un-cureable overheat, steam blasting out the coolant bottle. New engine time.

 

We've just got our Disco II SE7 with the secondary air engine back after a year off the road (this time the serpentine belt tensioner went, mashing valves into pistons half way along I-10 between Houston and San Antonio).

Sure enough we're getting gurgling sounds in the cabin as air bubbles through. Due to engine numbers 1 and 2 dying from 'er indoors not bothering to fix coolant leaks or just ignore them until the engines blew, I'm keeping a close eye on the coolant levels right now. I've driven the beast less than 100 miles since it got back on the road and have topped up the coolant once (about 6 or 7 pints of ready-mixed coolant used) and will continue to do so as needed.

HOWEVER:

Q1 - Is there a proper / easy way to bleed the coolant circuit without waiting for nature to take its course?

Q2 - Is that the A/C (and cabin heater) not working in some way linked to air in the heater circuit or is it just a duff fuse box like everyone seems to suggest? Spring is upon us already in Texas and I'd like to have the coolant and A/C working long before Summer arrives.

Oh, while I'm at it:

Q3 - Where's the A/C refill valve? I have the bit bottle of R134 from Autozone, I just need to know what to connect it to.

Thanks.

 

Having lived on FM1960 I know what you mean about summer on the way.

Bleeding seems to involve detaching the coolant reserve container and elevating it to give more pressure, do this when cold. Don't stop bleeding at the first bubble, there will be more. Here is a homebrew bleeder that allows a hose to be attached to make it less messy. Bleed screw bad about breaking, sold by BMW dealers for like $7.

Hot coolant should be present in the heater core at all times truck is running, no valve to turn it off. Low coolant can keep mostly steam (hot air, like from Austin or Washington) in there and you'll get poor performance.

Attached is the AC hose layout. And coolant plumbing. There is a free download of the RAVE shop manual set. Rover Automated Viewing Environment (really means Rovers A'int Very Economical).

Being you are in the really warm area, might consider a 180F thermsoat.