Yes. Melted fuse is usually a combination of one or more of the following:

A. Too big a fuse installed.

B. Dirty connections, which arc slighly, build up carbon, as current passes thru the carbon it generates heat . As an example - have a build up that is two ohms; put 10 amps thru it, and you will have 200 watts. In the electrical trade this causes motors to burn up, circuit breakers to trip out of the blue, and fires to start, insulation to melt and migrate back from a connector, etc.

C. Something controlled by the fuse is drawing just below the rating of the fuse combined with A & B above.

D, USually this is related to connections being not tight and not clean in the fuse box, certainly can involve fuses as well as fuse links (fuses that bolt in). A new fuse block would be cheaper from a donor vehicle (dismantler or salvage). If you are careful you could replace a single fuse with an in-line holder from an auto parts store, if you are electrical guy/gal. If not, be damn careful. Don't need a toasted Disco.

 

This is the 30 amp fuse under the hood. According to the fuse cover that is the correct amp fuse.
More info....
If the A/C button is on the fan blows fine in all speeds, either hot or cold. If I turn the A/C button off there is a loud click, click, clicking coming from the area under the dash on the passenger side. This continues until I turn on the A/C button again.
I guess that could be the cause of the melt down??

Can I just leave the A/C switch on to avoid this?

This is my first week with the Rover and just the beginning of the issues that I am seeing. The steering gear box failed this morning and I see that a wire to the A/C Comp has been cut. Someone tell me it will get better LOL. I'm debating on selling already.

 

Which fuse number?

Under the dash is the AC fan, three bolts and it will drop straight down, may be full of sticks, leaves, rat's nest.

Power steering box and power steering pump use automatic transmission fluid, NOT power steering fluid. Lots of write ups on purging air bubbles inside, changing fluid, etc. Hoses are great leakers.

Scared off so far - you a'int seen nothin' yet....... But most are little piddly things that turned into big things (thanks to previous owner), or little things that take a lot of time to replace.

 

It is fuse #3 under the hood.

I had a mechanic look at the pump and it is leaking at the seal where the steering column shaft goes in. He recommended replacing the gear box.

I'm not really scared off and I enjoy working on things, just frustrated that all the BIG $$ stuff is hitting me before I have put 50 miles on it.

 

If the wires are cut to the a/c compressor it could be grounding out and causing the big amp draw and blow the fuse.
I am not a electrical guy so I really cant help you more, sorry.

 

1. Since pump and steering box use ATF fluid, pour in Lucas transmission fix, a thicker red fluid. May give you a work around for a period of time. Exploded diagram attached, you may be able to replce the leaking seal.

2. Clean up cut wires to AC, that is most likely the root of the problem with fuse 3. There are also control relays under the dash that would make noises when all this stuff is shorted. See attached schematic.

3 Attached diagram of steering box, they can be rebuilt, seals replaced, etc.

 

Looking at the relays under the dash, it appears that the previous owner has cut and rerouted some wires down there also. So what we have is the green/black wire at the compressor has been cut. A white/red wire on one of the relays under the dash has been cut and there is a random yellow wire that has been added to a relay. (not OEM wire). I'm new to the relay schematics and am not sure how to read them. I'm thinking I should have the entire heat/AC wire harness checked out.

With the heater/AC fan on w/ A/C button pressed in "On" the fan runs fine, with the A/C button out "Off" the relay starts clicking repeatedly and does not stop until turned off or the A/C button pressed again. Would the repeated clicking cause the fuse to blow/melt down? If so, then I guess I could just leave the button in for now.

 

I have the same problem with my 97 disco the unit doesn't just fall out I have to remove the radio ashtray change holder to get to the facia screws what am I doing wrong.