The problem is that the liners need to be chilled and the block heated so that they can be pressed together properly. Plus, the work associated with properly cleaning below the liner to allow it to be properly seated would be somewhat involved, not to mention the fact that the newly machined block would have such a lowered deck height that you would need custom head gaskets to keep the compression down where it need to be and put the intake ports at the right height for the intake to line up. For the effort invloved, I would go with top-hat liners and be sure of the outcome.

 

Pushing the liner to the register would be quite easy. It's not hard to do with the proper equipment. Depending on the depth of liner movement downward, a .020 mill on the deck is negligible. The link provided to Cometic would provide any gasket thickness within your needs.

Cometic Custom Gaskets

Available thickness: .027", .030", .036", .040", .045", .051", .060", .066", .070", .075",
.080”, .086”, .092”, .098”, .120"

Milling the head for proper intake alignment is old news and been done for all makes and models of engines. I am only offering this as an alternative for others to ponder.


La Sleeve Top Hat Part number Rove 1 $680.00
Machine and bore block / Hone $1300.00

If viable, I would be certain that it would be less than the $1980.00 for just the sleeve installation. I guess you could pin it as well, but that would be a last resort. Those figures are what it costs now for parts and labor.

MAK

 

Thanks Rudawski. Information like this is what keeps me sane when wading through internet bull.

Just bought a disco with this problem. I'd like to know how many miles people have put on after this fix and if there have been any problems.

I will be doing the fix in the next week or so and will report results.

 

fantastic post..I loved your commentary..I believe it sums up how frustrated most owners are with this liner issue. I was going to spend $6k for a top-hatted block. But I think I will try this first...thanks again.

 

that would be great...but is such a thing possible? steel liner aluminum block?

 

Well I installed the pins this weekend. Should have everything buttoned back up tonight so I can start it. I'll either be celebrating or writing a 'part out' ad. Wish me luck.

Eric

Update: Started the truck last night. NO MORE TICK! Idled for about an hour total and drove for ~ 50 miles. Quiet as a mouse. Thanks again Rudawski.

 

Almost all aluminum blocks have cast iron liners installed. The exception is blocks where specialized treatments are used to make the material within the cylinders hard enough to withstand the friction from the piston rings (such as Nikasil). I think the Acura NSX had a fiber cylinder liner, but cast iron seems to be the cheapest way to go. I don't think steel works well because of it's thermal transfer and expansion properties.

 

rudawski, well done.

I have many diplomas on the wall from very prestigious academic institutions. To you my friend, ...... I tip my hat.

(Also, thank you for serving our country)

 

The 3.0 nsx engines have iron liners. The 3.2 had FRM, fiber reinforced metal. The first Honda engines that had this were the Prelude 2.05Si engines. It was pretty common for them the wear down the piston rings if not well maintained (jaguar had that problem with early aj v8 with nikasil I think). I watched a machinist power hone a 2.05 block and the frm took chunks out of the stones. Pretty hard stuff.

 

Did you complete your fix? I'm about to attempt on my Disco and would love to hear from others if they've had long term success... although this is a last resort measure so maybe it doesn't matter.