Need Advice
I am looking for advice on purchasing an 03 discovery, my wife previously had a 97 but totaled it out in a pile up.
My concern is
1.) is 110,000 too many miles
2. The downhill slope light with exclamation was on during a test drive today, but the dealer just blew it off as a we will just reset the light for you.
My concern is
1.) is 110,000 too many miles
2. The downhill slope light with exclamation was on during a test drive today, but the dealer just blew it off as a we will just reset the light for you.
The hill descent control needs to be fixed, it will become part of what is called three Amigos. Search that on our site.
Take your scanner and watch engine temp after driving for 20 minutes or so, and idling. The heat gauge in a D2 is programmed to point at 50% from 130 - 240F about. You don't know you are starting to overheat until you are in a pickle. D1 is not much better. You would want temps under 200F while at highway speed. You can buy a 180F thermostat for about $60.
The front drive shaft, if original, is a ticking time bomb. The sealed grease fittings on one end will dry out (from CAT heat) and the unit splits, thrashing a hole in the tranny. With almost no warning chirps or vibration. Rebuild article in our tech area https://landroverforums.com/forum/ge...rebuild-29302/ or factor in replacement aftermarket in your price. Will likely need a new radiator soon from sludge buildup, espcially if running the Dexcool coolant. Your infrared thermometer when pointed at the radiator fins should show within 10F top to bottom with truck warmed up, engine off. Lower rows clog up first, so they get cooler.
When engine warms up there should be no "ticking" from sliding cylinder liner. Take a yard stick and hold to your ear, touch valve covers, alternator, pumps, etc., listening for growling or screaming or other things that just don't sound right.
Most likely the vehicle has never had differentials or transfer case oil changed. Negotiable.
When warmed up, engine off, spin that main radiator fan. Should come to a stop when released in less than one revolution, or fan clutch is bad.
About time for a water pump.
Better yet, negotiate extended warranty, and pay for a pre sales inspection by your mechanic. Assumes this is not a Rover dealer (you would think they would know not to just reset the HDC light). The factory shop and owner manuals are in the document set called the RAVE, links below.
Take your scanner and watch engine temp after driving for 20 minutes or so, and idling. The heat gauge in a D2 is programmed to point at 50% from 130 - 240F about. You don't know you are starting to overheat until you are in a pickle. D1 is not much better. You would want temps under 200F while at highway speed. You can buy a 180F thermostat for about $60.
The front drive shaft, if original, is a ticking time bomb. The sealed grease fittings on one end will dry out (from CAT heat) and the unit splits, thrashing a hole in the tranny. With almost no warning chirps or vibration. Rebuild article in our tech area https://landroverforums.com/forum/ge...rebuild-29302/ or factor in replacement aftermarket in your price. Will likely need a new radiator soon from sludge buildup, espcially if running the Dexcool coolant. Your infrared thermometer when pointed at the radiator fins should show within 10F top to bottom with truck warmed up, engine off. Lower rows clog up first, so they get cooler.
When engine warms up there should be no "ticking" from sliding cylinder liner. Take a yard stick and hold to your ear, touch valve covers, alternator, pumps, etc., listening for growling or screaming or other things that just don't sound right.
Most likely the vehicle has never had differentials or transfer case oil changed. Negotiable.
When warmed up, engine off, spin that main radiator fan. Should come to a stop when released in less than one revolution, or fan clutch is bad.
About time for a water pump.
Better yet, negotiate extended warranty, and pay for a pre sales inspection by your mechanic. Assumes this is not a Rover dealer (you would think they would know not to just reset the HDC light). The factory shop and owner manuals are in the document set called the RAVE, links below.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; May 12, 2013 at 07:39 AM.
Here are the pix of the gauges and OBDII scanner values for coolant temp.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...ry-i-ii-28599/ for D1 vs D2 info.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...ry-i-ii-28599/ for D1 vs D2 info.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; May 12, 2013 at 07:38 AM.
Oops - LR3 more advanced, different engine, etc. Still need plenty of services. Tech manual in the downloads below, here is the maintenace schedule, don't believe the hogwash about 150,000 mile diff oil.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; May 12, 2013 at 11:49 AM.
LR3s have proven to be a little more reliable over the long haul then the discovery's, in my opinion, far less major repairs needed. That said, they do still require good maintenance, and getting one with that mileage you may be looking at a fair amount of work to get it right, if it was not taken care of as well as it should have been.
Main things to look for on an LR3 (or RRS, same basic truck) is noise from the front suspension, leak from the transmission connector sleeve, noises from the driveline, and if a proper tune up has been done recently. Also check to make sure the passenger's front carpet isn't wet, and look around the front of the headliner and the A-pillars for signs of water staining or damage.
Main things to look for on an LR3 (or RRS, same basic truck) is noise from the front suspension, leak from the transmission connector sleeve, noises from the driveline, and if a proper tune up has been done recently. Also check to make sure the passenger's front carpet isn't wet, and look around the front of the headliner and the A-pillars for signs of water staining or damage.
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