I Bought a 2000 Disco II last august with a cracked block. I have just purchased and disassembled a short block i purchased from a wrecked disco II. I was just curious to the more experienced opinions to what my plans are.

I am having the block cleaned inspected and the deck resurfaced.
The heads have already been resurfaced.
I am buying all new gasket set and misc. gaskets.
New head bolts.
New timing chain and sprockets.

I am debating on having the cylinders rehoned, or if i should just clean them up with scotch bright? The crosshatching is still perfect. If I have the cylinders honed i have to spend an extra $250 for rings. The rings are sort of gummed to the pistons, they expand, but don't move easily.

I am not buying bearings because everything is still tight fitting

I probably wouldn't have even took it apart except for the oil pan, but the wrecking yard tech smashed my blocks deck with the forks on his lift truck.
Its good because now i know what the condition of the short block is.

 

Oil pump? Can be cracked, won't pumps as much PSI. New O-ring on oil pickup tube mount. Pressure test block as part of inspection, can have crack behind liner.

Like the parts bins with a handle....

 

Leave your cylinder walls alone but seriously consider a new oil pump kit. What about your water pump, it should be replaced and I would recommend the new German Airtex pump with the solid brass impellor and a 2 year warranty, they are on sale for $145 including shipping.

 

mike where did you see them for that price?

 

I am doing the same thing now too.. carefully remove the rings and clean out your ring lands... you won't believe how much crap is behind the rings. Don't scratch the lands please. No need to scotch bright the cylinders, just clean the carbon off at the top, check for a ridge too. Take a bin big enough to hold the internals (piston rod assemblies and mains...) fill with enough hot water and generous amount of simple green, let it soak a bit, and scrub all the parts clean...

I took a spring center punch and marked my rod caps with dots that correspond to the cylinder, dice style. and one punch in a corner that faces forward so I know which way the cap goes back on ( might not matter but it helps in my mind).

How many miles on the replacement block? Might consider a new cam and lifters. Take apart the oil pump and inspect. Remember to disassemble you oil pressure relief and bypass,, new o rings there (19x1mm) I think. Make sure the bypass moves freely in its bore.

You shouldn't have to do mains, but I would at least to rods.. cheap money. Either way you can do them later in the truck if you need. Were the heads rebuilt? LR had issues with the valve guides being a smidge too small, when they heated up they would drag and the truck would have a slight hiccup.. not all but it is an issue, you can get away with a slight oversize reaming, instead of new guides.

Clean the crap out of those ring lands though...get them back to grey metal or the rings won't seat properly upon combustion and don't scratch them or it can have the same effect on the rings.

Good luck

 

Do not remove the rings with the gunk there unless you plan on buying new ones. Best to let the pistons soak in whatever you like to use to loosen crap up, then clean until the rings move fairly well. Then remove the rings. Rings that stick have a tendency to break when you try to remove them.

 

Yes... I soaked them in hot water and simple green, then I used an ultrasonic cleaner we have a small one it fits half the piston at a time... after I broke my first 2nd compression ring I just ordered a new set.