There's no need to replace them if they are in good shape. Just use new nylock nuts on them (grade 5)

Edited to remove reference to lock washers which really shouldn't be used.

 

Good deal. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks.
-Anthony

 

Just one more question, Tom.

I intend to pick up a torque wrench, because of the high revolutions the shaft will make I want to be sure everything is nice and even all around. However, other than changing my spark plugs, carburetor, and my exhaust (A and B pipes) on prior cars, I never really felt the need for one and have kind of felt my way to through the level of tightness.

Would you advise against *not* using a torque wrench? The instructions seem very specific about how tight the bolts need to be.

-Anthony

 

Anthony, I can only speak for myself, but I cannot think of a reason to NOT use a torque wrench. This is assuming of course that you have the proper settings and you know how to operate the wrench.

 

Any reason to not use one? None that I can think of.

That said, I've been working on Land Rovers for around 35 years and have never used a torque wrench on propshaft fixings. Never had one come apart.
To use a torque wrench you'll need a crowfoot wrench on the end to get to the nuts. When you use anything that changes the pivot center line on the wrench, like a crowfoot will, you need to adjust your torque setting to get the desired torque.
Obviously I wouldn't bother. The torque on the fixings isn't that critical, as long as they are tight.

 

I noticed the link to the u joints from advanced auto have the grease nipple on one of the outer end joints as opposed to in the center of the joint like the one you used. Is this better or the wrong joint? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...5271118-P_17_R

 

Neapco u-joints have the zerk in the end cap.

 

make sure that when you speak to somebody at advanced auto you let them know that part number 1-0005.

I got told part is no longer valid and the cross referenced it to 1-0153.

I can tell you as of last night it aint gonna fit.

Longer by almost 1/4".

 

First, 1-0153 is a 1310 series u-joint, as used in the Series Land Rovers.
The 10005 are 1300 series u-joints.

Second, you do not want to use a PDQ 1-0153 u-joint in anything as they are made in China, like most of the PDQ u-joints. The only 2 PDQ that are made in the US (that I'm aware of) are the 10005 and 10154 (another 1310 series), both with the zerks in the end cap.

The person at the store obviously had no clue what they were talking about.

 

I seem to be finding that more and more with dealing my LR.

But since a mate of mine is a mechanic he found them pretty easy.

He told me while we were taking them apart he is not use to working on something so small.

I also found the flush zerk fiittings in Mcmaster Carr so they will be installed on the sliding joint once we get it back together.