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Propshaft Rebuild

Old Nov 23, 2011 | 10:36 PM
  #41  
TomOwen's Avatar
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Thanks again for this write up. As a follow-up to the Neapco/PQ $12 u-joints. I followed the link above and mine arrived today. Stamped with USA on the knuckle and neapco URL on the box.

Box


uJoint, Threaded Zirk in end, not in knuckle


Comes with Zirc and retaining Clips


Thanks again for the help. Tom
 
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Old Nov 24, 2011 | 07:14 AM
  #42  
Disco Mike's Avatar
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Have you ever rebuilt a double cardon drive shaft, you must also replace the centering ball.
If you are concerned about the joints and have over 100,000 miles and haven't been greasing the fittings, including both slip shaft, replace all 4 u-joints.
If you want a PDF on how to rebuild this, send me your e-mail address and I send it to you.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2011 | 07:29 AM
  #43  
antichrist's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Disco Mike
Have you ever rebuilt a double cardon drive shaft, you must also replace the centering ball.
If you are concerned about the joints and have over 100,000 miles and haven't been greasing the fittings, including both slip shaft, replace all 4 u-joints.
If you want a PDF on how to rebuild this, send me your e-mail address and I send it to you.
Mike, do you realize that this is all covered in the OP? Except the 100k figure, that's way too long.

Tom, glad to help.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 01:06 PM
  #44  
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I checked the driveshaft on my recently purchased Disco with 138K on it and noticed the joints are greasable, but pretty dry though they have no noticeable play. Plan on greasing them tonight. I did notice that the slip shaft has a tiny bit of play in it. Is this normal or should I expect to be purchasing a new driveshaft soon?
 
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 01:56 PM
  #45  
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It depends on how you define "tiny". Play in the splines should be hardly noticeable at all.
But you should go back and read the OP carefully.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 08:00 PM
  #46  
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Just finished mine up, not to bad just tedious. Be careful take your time, I had to take a few deep breaths to relax. Fitting the flanged join to the cardon join was a pita, was not sure if I was ever going to get it. Also I did not have a slide hammer to get the old centering ball out so I out a hood from a puller into the ball and put the hook into a vise and tapped lightly onto the joint housing until it broke loose and came out. I should have wiped the excess grease off better after greasing because some slung onto the exhaust burning it caused it to smell and make me nervous that maybe some needle bearings fell out somewhere during the process, but nope just grease on exhaust.

I was going to do the rear also but one of the u joints I need to return because on of the caps was smaller than the others? Does not make sense.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 12:00 PM
  #47  
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i am a pretty new owner of a disco II and have next to none mechanical experience. had a run in with the amigos already but theyve gone into hibernation for now.
now that i see this im concerned about the grease fittings. i tried taking a look underneath to compare to the pictures here but i just cant tell.

if i take a few pictures around those joints can you guys help me out??
 
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 06:52 AM
  #48  
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Get a good light, chock the rear wheels front and back, jack up one front wheel, put it in neutral and crawl under and slowly turn the propshaft by hand and look.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 05:37 PM
  #49  
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There was a reason why BMW put in sealed u-joints. If the u-joints you've installed have zerk fittings the heat from the cat will melt it out in no time. You MUST use grease that can withstand high temperatures. Lucas makes a red grease that won't melt out of the joint unless it reaches nearly 600 degrees. that cat gets HOT. If you have just been using regular grease you might be rebuilding again soon.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 08:30 AM
  #50  
antichrist's Avatar
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Originally Posted by landroverenthusiast33
There was a reason why BMW put in sealed u-joints. If the u-joints you've installed have zerk fittings the heat from the cat will melt it out in no time. You MUST use grease that can withstand high temperatures. Lucas makes a red grease that won't melt out of the joint unless it reaches nearly 600 degrees. that cat gets HOT. If you have just been using regular grease you might be rebuilding again soon.
You apparently don't understand the difference between "sealed" and greaseable u-joints.
Using a "sealed" u-joint is no protection in that location, unless a person isn't willing to lubricate greaseable ones.

I have over 150k miles on my greaseable u-joints.
 
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