Replaced Head Gasket - No spark, won't start
I just did my first head gasket job on my 2001 DiscoII SE7 110K. Went well and found cylinder 2 steam cleaned and a rupture in the gasket between the coolant channel and the cylinder. Thanks lrfourms. I put it pack together and it won't start. It cranks like champ and the belt spins but that's it. The Rover ran well before just white coolant smoke/air in coolant system and an occasional 302 misfire.
I've been testing for spark by touching a plug to the manifold and watching even with the lights down low in a romantic setting. Took out my new Autolite Iridiums and put my old blackened Champions in and no go. Tested for spark with old and new plugs as well as old STI 8mm wires and new Magnacores.
I seem to getting fuel, hear the pump and can sniff gas out the tail pipe, took the top intake off last night and there is pressurized fuel in the rails. Both coil packs are plugged in. Didn't forget the block grounding strap.
Electronics seem good, I can arm/disarm the alarm. Red light does not blink when it's off. Headlights are bright, fuses all good. I don't know how to check relays. Check engine light is on but no codes come up. Found this surprising that my missing oxygen sensor code wouldn't appear so I borrowed a second ODB2 tool and got the exact same thing. Must have wiped the codes when I disconnected the battery one of the last 3 times. I also pushed the inertia sensor button for kicks.
My research points me to the CKP crank position sensor but it never gave me any guff before. Didn't mangle the wire from what I can see. CEL light stays on when it cranks???
I don't want to through more parts at this and have them not work, my wife will make me take her Kia that looks like a silver hightop on vacation this summer if she doesn't trust it/my mechanical prowess.
Is there someway to test the CKP? Can someone tell me how to test the coil packs with a voltmeter? Is this thing immobilized? Any other ideas?

I've been testing for spark by touching a plug to the manifold and watching even with the lights down low in a romantic setting. Took out my new Autolite Iridiums and put my old blackened Champions in and no go. Tested for spark with old and new plugs as well as old STI 8mm wires and new Magnacores.
I seem to getting fuel, hear the pump and can sniff gas out the tail pipe, took the top intake off last night and there is pressurized fuel in the rails. Both coil packs are plugged in. Didn't forget the block grounding strap.
Electronics seem good, I can arm/disarm the alarm. Red light does not blink when it's off. Headlights are bright, fuses all good. I don't know how to check relays. Check engine light is on but no codes come up. Found this surprising that my missing oxygen sensor code wouldn't appear so I borrowed a second ODB2 tool and got the exact same thing. Must have wiped the codes when I disconnected the battery one of the last 3 times. I also pushed the inertia sensor button for kicks.
My research points me to the CKP crank position sensor but it never gave me any guff before. Didn't mangle the wire from what I can see. CEL light stays on when it cranks???
I don't want to through more parts at this and have them not work, my wife will make me take her Kia that looks like a silver hightop on vacation this summer if she doesn't trust it/my mechanical prowess.
Is there someway to test the CKP? Can someone tell me how to test the coil packs with a voltmeter? Is this thing immobilized? Any other ideas?


Last edited by hotdog3030; May 15, 2012 at 01:03 PM. Reason: clarafication
CKP info attached.
If you were immobilized, the BCU would not turn on the starter. Also LED would be have on dash as this:
If you were immobilized, the BCU would not turn on the starter. Also LED would be have on dash as this:
Engine immobilised: If the engine is immobilised and the ignition is on, the LED is illuminated continuously. If the engine is immobilised and the ignition is off, the LED flashes 50 ms on, 2 seconds off.
Check fuse 14 & 24 under dash, involved with coil packs.
Check fuse 14 & 24 under dash, involved with coil packs.
make sure you attached the crank sensor on the rear of the head if you actually disconnected it. make sure all grounds to the head are secure. make sure the ground wires at the fuel rail where secure. and last but not least make sure you connected the coils in the back. there is a ground wire that attaches on that part as well. good luck
Thank you all for you help. I failed to fully connect the CKP behind cylinder #7. After that it fired right up.
Torque on the exhaust manifold was 40ft/lb before they were fully sealed.
Can't believe how much torque was gained, especially on the low end with new Autolite Iridium plugs and 8mm Magnecore wires.
-------
Here is my follow up question. Should I replace the new oil in the near future? I read that I should due to coolant that may have entered during the job. I did leave the plug out during the entire job and poured half a quart through after assembly of the rocker covers and before I replaced the oil pna plug.
Torque on the exhaust manifold was 40ft/lb before they were fully sealed.
Can't believe how much torque was gained, especially on the low end with new Autolite Iridium plugs and 8mm Magnecore wires.
-------
Here is my follow up question. Should I replace the new oil in the near future? I read that I should due to coolant that may have entered during the job. I did leave the plug out during the entire job and poured half a quart through after assembly of the rocker covers and before I replaced the oil pna plug.
Last edited by hotdog3030; May 16, 2012 at 09:01 AM. Reason: typo
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