Still overheating disco2
#41
Well I drained the radiator the only way I knew how, or could.
I have been driving the car locally for 3 days and the temperature guage has not moved from 'normal'.
The problem is that the coolant level in the expansion tank is inching slowly downwards.
I have the car booked in at Biggs Eastside for a coolant pressue check. They will also change the oil and visually check for any coolant residue in the old oil.
Thanks.
.
Update: Biggs Eastside said they drian the coolant via a plug next to the water pump, facing the radiator.
I have been driving the car locally for 3 days and the temperature guage has not moved from 'normal'.
The problem is that the coolant level in the expansion tank is inching slowly downwards.
I have the car booked in at Biggs Eastside for a coolant pressue check. They will also change the oil and visually check for any coolant residue in the old oil.
Thanks.
.
Update: Biggs Eastside said they drian the coolant via a plug next to the water pump, facing the radiator.
Last edited by 2004S; 08-13-2011 at 01:01 AM.
#42
#43
Update from Biggs Eastside:
The Check Engine light = This is due to the ill fitting fuel filler cap - evaporation issue, so they filed the cap screw thread down. I have to monitor it (the clicking when replacing the fuel cap is just the top 'spinning'.)
Oil = no sign of coolant in engine oil.
Throttle Body Sensor = shows signs of seepage (not leaking) so it is NOT an issue.
The squeaky Serpetine Belt = Coolant leak (onto the belt) from front timing chain cover. Fix is to replace gasget for $500.
And..
Main reason for coolant leak = Head gasget needs to be replaced for $2300. (Generic problem on engines with 60K to 100k miles.)
Many people have the coolant leakage and carry on by just topping up the expansion tank every week.
I purchased the car 1 month ago for $9000. I am undecided about what to do next, and will weigh up the pro's and cons.
I hope this post helps some people.
P.S.
The original overheating was due to the coolant level dipping too low. What happens is an air bubble gets in and circulates getting bigger due to the heat!
So your pushing a bit of air around the block that has no cooling properties. Makes sense to me :-)
...
The Check Engine light = This is due to the ill fitting fuel filler cap - evaporation issue, so they filed the cap screw thread down. I have to monitor it (the clicking when replacing the fuel cap is just the top 'spinning'.)
Oil = no sign of coolant in engine oil.
Throttle Body Sensor = shows signs of seepage (not leaking) so it is NOT an issue.
The squeaky Serpetine Belt = Coolant leak (onto the belt) from front timing chain cover. Fix is to replace gasget for $500.
And..
Main reason for coolant leak = Head gasget needs to be replaced for $2300. (Generic problem on engines with 60K to 100k miles.)
Many people have the coolant leakage and carry on by just topping up the expansion tank every week.
I purchased the car 1 month ago for $9000. I am undecided about what to do next, and will weigh up the pro's and cons.
I hope this post helps some people.
P.S.
The original overheating was due to the coolant level dipping too low. What happens is an air bubble gets in and circulates getting bigger due to the heat!
So your pushing a bit of air around the block that has no cooling properties. Makes sense to me :-)
...
Last edited by 2004S; 08-10-2011 at 07:22 PM.
#44
The gasket is a low priced item (like $20), but here is the factory list of what to do to renew it, all labor. Head gaskets are higher, you'll want a set with new head bolts as well (around $300). Both these are things that can be a DIY project for the serious owner. If going the open checkbook route, shop around.
Please resist the temptation to pour in three bottles of head gasket "fix" - that is something you would have to weigh carefully. Under certain conditions things will become worse. But if you are lucky the need to repair could be extended for some period of time.
FRONT COVER GASKET
Service repair no - 12.65.04
Service repair no - 12.65.04
1.
Remove crankshaft pulley. See Crankshaft
Pulley Assembly. Do not remove pulleys
2.
Remove water pump pulley.
3.
3.
Release distributor cap clips.
4.
4.
Release plug leads from plugs and clips.
5.
5.
Place cap and leads to one side.
6.
6.
Turn engine until No. 1 piston is at T.D.C.
7.
7.
Check position of rotor arm.
8.
8.
Remove fixings securing power steering pump
bracket to water pump bracket.
9.
Remove power steering pump bracket from
water pump.
10.
Remove clips securing wiring to generator
tensioner.
11.
Disconnect distributor feed wire.
12.
12.
Pivot power steering pump away from front
cover, tighten pivot to retain in position.
13.
Disconnect vacuum pipe from distributor.
14.
14.
Remove water pump bottom hose.
15.
15.
Disconnect oil pressure switch.
16.
16.
Disconnect heater hose at water pump.
17.
17.
Remove generator tensioner from water pump,
move tensioner aside.
18.
Mark distributor position to front cover.
19.
19.
Remove distributor clamp, remove distributor.
See ELECTRICAL, Repair, Distributor - V8i
See ELECTRICAL, Repair, Distributor - V8i
20.
Remove fixings sump to front cover.
21.
21.
Loosen four adjacent sump fixings.
22.
22.
Remove generator support strut from front cover,
move strut aside.
23.
Loosen remaining front cover fixings and remove
front cover.
24.
Remove front cover gasket.
Refit
Refit
25.
Clean timing cover, clean block face.
26.
26.
Lightly grease gasket faces.
27.
27.
Fit new gasket to block face.
28.
28.
Apply hylosil to sump gasket.
29.
29.
Clean threads of cover fixing bolts, apply Loctite
372 to threads.
30.
Fit timing cover, fit fixing bolts. Tighten to 28
Nm.
31.
Fit generator support strut to front cover.
32.
32.
Tighten sump to timing cover fixings to 10 Nm.
33.
Tighten sump fixings to 10 Nm.
34.
Lubricate distributor O ring.
35.
35.
Fit distributor in position marked.
36.
36.
Align oil pump drive, if distributor does not seat
correctly.
37.
Fit distributor clamp. Tighten to 20 Nm.
38.
Locate generator tensioner on water pump
bracket.
39.
Connect heater hose, tighten clip.
40.
40.
Connect oil pressure switch.
41.
41.
Connect bottom hose, tighten clip.
42.
42.
Connect vacuum pipe to distributor.
43.
43.
Loosen power steering pump pivot, lower pump.
44.
44.
Connect distributor feed wire.
45.
45.
Connect wire ties to generator tensioner.
46.
46.
Fit power steering pump bracket to water pump.
Tighten to
28 Nm.
47.
Fit power steering pump to bracket.
48.
48.
Position distributor cap. Fit plug leads to plugs
and clips.
49.
Clip distributor cap in position.
50.
50.
Fit water pump pulley. Tighten to 10 Nm.
51.
Fit crankshaft pulley. See Crankshaft Pulley
Assembly
52.
Tension drive belts correctly.
53.
53.
Check ignition timing.
54. Refill cooling system
54. Refill cooling system
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Dee Quirod
Discovery II
13
11-05-2012 03:12 PM
kevinocall
General Range Rover Discussion - Archived
2
07-13-2012 10:07 AM