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2008 LR2 Steering Pump Replacement

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  #11  
Old 01-21-2019, 09:48 AM
p_gill's Avatar
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Mike,

Let me know if the Reservoir and fluid fixes your problem

You can use

Pentosin CHF202
or
Pentosin CHF11S

11S is slightly more expensive and possibly easier to find.

If you are planning a trip to the arctic in the winter with temperatures below -40 then 11S is the better choice

It doesn't get that cold where I live so I just use the same fluid as was filled from the factory the 202

Because you were able to get so many mile without many problems it would be useful if you could let me know the answer to the following

- Oil change - How often? What oil? What filter?
- Gasoline- What Octane? Preferred brand? Top Tier?
- Sparkplugs - what brand? How often?

Also if you do decide to use the list for maintenance items please let us know what you find

Good Luck

Paul
 
  #12  
Old 01-21-2019, 09:57 AM
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hey paul, i use liquimoly full synthetic 5W-40 i believe is the weight and i change it myself every 7500 miles. This is the
Oil Filter Oil Filter
i've been using. I always use 92+ octane at whatever station i need to access (mostly QT by my house and the occasional shell, exxon and chevron).
Honestly, i've not changed the spark plugs but that is next on the list.
New reservoir arrives tomorrow so i'll let you know!

thanks again
m
 

Last edited by razorgaze; 01-21-2019 at 10:57 AM.
  #13  
Old 01-21-2019, 11:47 AM
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Mike,

>200K and you use LiguiMoly ---- that makes sense!!!!

I don't add any oil between changes and I am assuming that you don't as well


I am using Mobil 1 0w40 (5 quarts for $20 on sale Amazon Prime)

If the Mobil 1 wasn't so much cheaper I would use LiguiMoly instead. (From what I've read on Bobistheoilguy LiguiMoly is the better choice not taking cost into consideration)

I do use 91 Octane, in the Peoples Republic of California we can only get as high as 91.


Moving on to Spark Plugs

Here is what I am using

Denso (5344) IKH20 Iridium Power Spark Plug, (Pack of 1)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CJ46HW/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Link about replacing the plugs

Freel2.com - View topic - Reduced Engine Performance - spark plugs?


If you have the time you should mark the spark plugs (to show the intake valve location) and take some good picture

The Volvo Technical bulletin explains what needs to be done, its a good read about our engine consuming Oil

Here is what the Australians have to say about our engine

Volvo 3.2 SI6 engine: B6324S | Oil Consumption

And here is the technical bulletin from Volvo for assessing the spark plugs

http://australiancar.reviews/_pdfs/V...ion_201204.pdf

Take care

Paul
 
  #14  
Old 01-21-2019, 11:53 AM
razorgaze's Avatar
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paul, you're the man, man. A wealth of info. And here's the
LiquiMoly LiquiMoly
i get.

Also, i do in fact have to add a little oil between changes. It's the damnedest thing too as i have no leaks or anything. I recently replaced a vacuum leak in the dipstick and thought for sure this would solve the top-off issue - nope.

I will post all activity and success/failures thereof

m
 

Last edited by razorgaze; 01-21-2019 at 11:56 AM.
  #15  
Old 01-21-2019, 07:37 PM
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Black sharpie mark shows intake valve location

I believe these are the original plugs for the 2010 S80

removed at 124k miles

#3 coil was slightly discolored

#3 plug is the darkest of the group
 
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  #16  
Old 01-26-2019, 05:05 PM
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hey paul, so...

I followed the video and still have the squeal when i turn; however, it does seem to turn easier. And The video, though straightforward, left me scratching my head a few times, so it's quite possible i have air in the system.

I got the reservoirs configured and hooked up. It didn't immediately occur to me that with the key in (but the car off), turning the steering wheel puts pressure on the lines causing the old reservoir to fill with fluid. However, i failed to turn on the engine while the two were connected so i never got the old fluid fully out. By not doing so I likely left air in the system as the reservoir swap caused some fluid to escape.

I will now look into how to completely bleed the system IF having air in the system could cause it to squeal. Honestly, i think it's the belt. After the install, i took it to the car wash to clean off the engine because i got a little fluid in the bay. Plus, i just like to keep it dusted off. I keep the car running in case anything gets wet that shouldn't will quickly dry. Well, it started squealing without any movement on the wheel. My theory is water got on the belt. as i mentioned, about 1/3 of the belt is gone, like it was somehow perfectly shaved off. Perhaps without the full strength of the belt the squeal is actually the belt slipping.

Anyway, just wanted to post an update. The belt has to be changed and I've decided that with 211K miles on it, might as well just changed all the pulleys, water pump, thermostat while i'm in there. Those parts will arrive next week so i'll keep you posted.

m
 

Last edited by razorgaze; 01-26-2019 at 05:11 PM.
  #17  
Old 01-26-2019, 06:17 PM
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Mike

congratulations you are on the right path

it does sound like the noise is coming from the belt or pulley

as for air in the system it’s easy to tell just start the engine and remove cap for the reservoir the bubbles will be obvious

good luck

Paul
 
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