Ok, yes, I’m new to the forums. I hate to just join and post a problem, but I am at my wits end. First, I am actually pretty handy mechanically and have worked on cars since I was a kid. I do almost everything repair and maintenance wise on my vehicles. I own a Mini Cooper Countryman and a Royal Enfield bike, so working on vehicles is an ongoing situation. Now my wife has a 2013 LR2, that we have had for a couple of years and absolutely love it. We have never had a problem with it that I couldn’t deal with on my own. Now is a different story. This last Friday night, she and my daughter were traveling to shop. I had driven the car the previous day, but made no adjustments to the seating or steering wheel. My wife felt like I had adjusted the steering wheel, so while waiting at a red light, she unlocked the lever and adjusted it. She turned at the red light and within a couple of miles, the car started acting up. She said it seemed to lose power(slowing down with the gas pressed) and the steering started getting stiff. She got it off the road as best as she could, and called me at work. She cut the car off, and when she tried to restart it, a low battery power message displayed on the center display, and would not start. The starter is cranking, but engine will not turnover. Due to the nature of my work, I was unable to leave right away. She called her boss who lives close to where she was. He came and attempted to jump it off. Same issue, starter is turning by not crank. We eventually got it towed to a local shop. I was working the next day, so her boss replaced the battery. I had not had a chance to check it myself. I told him to use my battery pack to keep power on the cables while changing, which he did. Now a new battery and same issue. So today, I was finally off and could check it out myself. I took my multimeter and code reader with me. So the new battery is showing 12.4 volts, which should be sufficient to start the car, but still no go. The old battery ironically is showing 12.6 volts. So I ran the code reader, and a ton of codes came up, a few of them just for example:Restraints lost communication, fuel rail pressure low, low fuel system pressure, fuel regulator exceeded, torque management request input, invalid data received from transmission, etc etc. Two OEM codes indicated as well, B10A2 and P162F. Researching these codes, they seem to be Crash Code and Starter Motor Disabled respectively. I used my code reader and erased all codes, rescanned, no codes, and then attempted to start the car. Same thing, the starter will go and go and go, but no crank. Then after awhile, the center display says “ Low Battery....Please switch engine on or system will shutdown in 3 minutes”. So I cut the it off, and rescan. Almost all of the codes return. I am simply at a loss. I hate to deal with dealerships, because most of the time they just keep going and going until you are in for thousands and problems still not fixed. Nothing makes sense to me that would case the initial “quit running” problem. I am wondering if her initial steering wheel adjustment could have caused all of these problems, the steering module failing. The car was in drive but stopped not moving. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated, before I get this great car towed 50 miles to have the LR dealership start playing their games with it.

 

Hi, did you ever figure out what the problem was? I’m having the exact same issue. I have a 2013 lr2 as well and have mechanical experience as well and I can’t seem to figure out what the hell is going on with it.

 

The 2013 LR2 has the 2.0T

most owners on this forum have the 3.2


if my 3.2 wouldn’t start like you described then I would do the following

1. disconnect the MAF and try to start

2. replace the fuel rail pressure sensor

good luck

Paul