The attached jpg's relate to problems with your door locks or the key fobs not working. I still am not clear what your concern is?

These two jpg's are the door sill on the right side of the vehicle; in North American and Europe, the passenger side.
While I was never certain, it seems that the same wiring setup / problem can also be under the left side door sill, the drivers side in North America and Europe.

There is another collection of really small conductors you might run into in that wiring tangle which is power for the illumination of the door lock lights within the rear doors. Those should show 12 volts with the park lights on whereas with the door lock signals, you will rarely get any sort of a reading, making them hard to figure out.

What you are looking for is those telephone type squeeze connectors or some similar "not automotive" wiring connector. They corrode internally so nothing is evident as a rule.
If you are lucky, the wires will just pull out so then it is clear where the problem is, but often all looks good but is not.

I am not certain any other vehicle manufacturer in the word does what LR routinely does. I guess that is what being on the bleeding edge is all about. Our 3's are pretty much still current technology 15 years later - there is a cost.

As to that loose connector down by the fuse panel, I do not know but probably someone on the board knows.

These are world cars so perhaps the connector relates to Japanese pollution requirements or EU trailer connector concerns, etc - could be anything but is not the Ford connector related to electric trailer brakes; that is up above the brake pedal.

 

Recap: I have the same issue as angrylobster. Code P0504. Followed the same steps replacing and ruling out the brake switch, light bulbs, fuses, etc.

He found his issue to be a corroded wire splice underneath the passenger front sill. I believe that the last pictures provided by bbyer are the location of the splice that angryloster was referent to. I did not find any corroded or faulty wiring on that location. I also checked on the battery compartment. No corroded or lose wiring there either.

But while looking into the center console wiring the windshield wipers just turned ON when I was messing with the harness! I disconnected the battery, checked on the harness connectors and I found a little corrosion in one of them (see picture). I cleaned the corroded connector and preformed a hard reset before reconnecting the battery. Checked the battery, it was 70% so I fully charge it before reconnecting.

I start it and everything was working fine, no errors! I let it run for a while, turned off the ignition, removed the key and when I opened the door the wipers turned ON again! And the dashboard now says ‘key in ignition’ when there is no key in the ignition. I had to disconnect the battery to turn the wipers off. I have no idea where to go from here. Looks like all the errors are gone but the LR went mad with the darn wipers.

I just ordered a Center Console Wiring Harness to rule that one out.


Connector going to the stick shift

Center console wiring

 

Hello! 2005 LR3 here, having the same issue, replaced battery and brake switch, getting only 6 volts across the terminals for the brake switch, and I can shift freely from park WITHOUT depressing the brake pedal. Can you help me with where to look for corroded connections/wires? (USA version, drivers side is on the left)

 

I just spent several days trying to track down a similar issue on 2005 LR3. I had a no crank, no start condition. When I turned the key, the dash would come up but had no temperate displayed ("-- F" was shown from what I recall).

IIDControl GAP tool would not connect. It kept displaying the message "Waiting for ignition ON" (basically indicating that it thought the key was off).

I was able to read codes using a Launch scanner, and one of the codes that came up was:

IPC / Instrucment Cluster Control Module:
U0140-87 Lost Communication with Body Control Module

I disconnected the bottom connector on the Central Junction Box (fuse box on the passenger side, behind the glove box; this contains the Body Control Module) and tested the CAN Medium bus wires (these are the only twisted-pair wires that go to the CJB). I was getting 130 kiloohms resistance. On a working CAN Bus you should be seeing 120 ohms (definitley not kiloohms)

The AC control module in the dash has 2 pairs of CAN Medium bus wires going to it. One measured 60 ohms (this section went to the Instrument Cluster), the other measured 130 kilo-ohms (which went to the CJB).

After quite a bit of work, I found that water from the sunroof drains had gotten into the wires along the door sills on the passanger side and several wires were corroded (in my case they were on the rear passenger door area).

Cutting out the corroded sections and splicing in good wire solved the issue.

I had a similar issue in my 2006 Range Rover Sport L320, and also in a BMW X6 E71. All of those also had water in the floor by the doors. I don't understand why manufacturers don't add a drain there just in case this happens.

Hope this helps someone in their troubleshooting