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2005 LR3 Door Sill Wiring Question

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Old Aug 15, 2021 | 10:26 AM
  #1  
Structural1's Avatar
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Default 2005 LR3 Door Sill Wiring Question

Hey Guys... New on the forum but sooo happy I found it. I won't bore you with the electrical issue I'm chasing on the 2005 LR3. I'm working my way through the threads
and following the great directions everyone has given for similar problems. If I can't find my issue I will write up whats happening.

But for now... question... I need to access the wiring in the door sills on both sides of the LR3 There is the top molding that runs from the front of the front front door tot he back of the rear
door. This is the "top" molding that has a piece that covers the middle pillar. This snaps off easily. Under that is a more ridged piece that covers the wires and also runs from to back. It is
held down by these white round plastic push clips into the floor. This molding piece seems to have a flat area that runs under the front seat. I've worked the molding out of the plastic clips that hold it onto the floor
but the area under the seat seems to be fastened under the seat somehow and this molding won't slide out. Is this plastic molding fastened somehow under the seat and the seat needs to come out to remove and access the wires?
Seems other threads show access to the wires with the seats still in. So maybe I just need to work this molding back and forth and it will slide out from under the front seat?

Anyone have some thoughts?

Stumped in Milwaukee.

 
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Old Aug 15, 2021 | 03:24 PM
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keninnc's Avatar
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From: Charlotte, NC
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I found the easies way to removed this was to unbolt the seat. You don't have to fully remove the seat and you don't have to unplug any of the electrical connections. Just remove then trim pieces at each corner and with a 50 Torx bit you can unbolt it. You can then lift up the seat enough to remove the trim part you having difficulty with. Also, you don't have to remove the long side trim piece that is connected to the seat that touches the carpet.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2021 | 05:34 PM
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Thanks Keninnc. I appreciate it. I was able to easily get the molding out after loosening Torx 50 bolts on the seat base.

I'm chasing the typical LR3 "dash lit up like a xmas tree" issue where some members have found water sitting in the sill and wire splices corroded.

Passenger side was dry as a bone and splices look fine. Driver side has 1/4" of sitting water. Found the drain tube elbow was rotted off and water would just poor
into the floor pan and sill. Dried out the water and blew off the wires with a heat gun. The only splices on the Driver side are near the back seat and looked fine.

Gonna fix the drain elbow and keep chasing the "dash lit up like a xmass tree". Next steps is to pull the TCCM and check for corrosion. I may just buy a used one to swap out to be sure.

I let the forum know how the chase goes.

Thanks again.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2024 | 11:12 PM
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I know it’s been a few years since this post, but curious if you were able to track down the issue causing all the fault codes? I have a similar situation and wondering if I can maybe start troubleshooting where you found the problem. Thanks!
 
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Old Apr 24, 2024 | 10:51 AM
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Default Issue fixed

Originally Posted by Dfischer01
I know it’s been a few years since this post, but curious if you were able to track down the issue causing all the fault codes? I have a similar situation and wondering if I can maybe start troubleshooting where you found the problem. Thanks!
Hi... The Cause of the water was a rotten Sunroof Drain Elbow on the Driver Side. Common issue I am told. Removed Seats and pulled back carpet and pad. Dried up water
with towels and left fan on for 3 days. However, my electrical issues weren't in floor wiring or the famous "Red wire in the passenger sill".

My issue was 100% solved by replacing the ABS module. The ABS module was screwing up the Highspeed CAN signal and throwing faults in other Modules.

I suspected the ABS because of the faults I was seeing. So I disconnected the ABS module and cranked up. I noted some errors disappeared. So I took the Model # off the module and
found a module on Ebay with very close model #. Some model # modules will swap out and some won't. I didn't remove the old module at first. I just unplugged it and plugged the new module in.

Cranked and reset Errors. Idled for 10 mins and no faults. Backed out driveway and pulled back in. No Faults. Shut down and did the full Swap and Bleed Brakes. Put 5,000 miles on it with no issues.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2024 | 12:26 PM
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I appreciate the quick response! I have the water issue and found the red wire corroded and disconnected, but that isn’t my problem either. Mine has the dash full of faults and won’t raise off bump stops, like many posts I’ve read. The NAV screen and radio were cycling on/off, but now that no longer comes on. I know the failure could be different for every situation, but getting feedback at least gives me something new to try. I’ll give the ABS module a try. I’m also going to pull out the transmission control module and CJB and check for signs of water. Thanks!
 
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Old Apr 24, 2024 | 05:17 PM
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Hi... I know a lot of guys really know how to use the GAP tool. I had 1 but was a "basic" user. Unplugging a module and cranking up helps sometimes. But some modules are required to crank.

I've also heard if your leak is the Passenger side Sun Roof Drain... or the Cowl leak... water can invade the Central Junction box behind the glove box. If that is your issue you will need to remove the
CJB and clean all the fuse terminals up.

 
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