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Well i figured out my D clutch issue: turns out that one of the second set of D steels matched the thicker end steel from the D clutch i removed. I was able to match what I took out after all. Somehow I overlooked this yesterday but it is in now. I way able to get the A, B, C, and E clutches together and in today. Hopefully I can get the rest of it together tomorrow.
Hi all,
got the transmission back in and hooked up. Filled it with fluid, it took about 9qts. I put it in reverse (to back down the ramps) and .... nothing. It is behaving exactly the same way that it was before the rebuild. I can not confirm that it will move if I rev it up, because i don't want to damage any of the new parts. So the question is, what is causing this lack of power/torque? Could the solenoids cause it? Beyond that the only thing I can think is that the oil pump is not functioning properly, or the o-rings that I could not get to inside the clutches are bad5280LR3 you mentioned that you could tell your solenoids were bad using the gap tool. What values should I be looking at and seeing? I've attached two logs where I slowly cycle from P>R>N>D>DS>1>2>3. One is the solenoid amps(?) and the other is the on/off for the solenoids.
I am slightly skeptical that the solenoids could cause this, but I need to look at all the possibilities.
Any other thoughts?
Last edited by kenneypj1; Sep 26, 2018 at 06:35 PM.
Reason: forgot to attach files
Yes, I had it rebuilt by Erikssons, and the torque converter was all the way in. If memory serves it actuall had to come back out slightly to pull tight against the flywheel
I did turn it multiple time to make sure it seated on the two splines and the oil pump. When I say it needed to pull back out I’m talking about maybe 5mm, probably less. I did rebuild the valve body with the sonnax zip kit and a new separator plate. It was pretty dirty on the inside so I wouldn’t be surprised if a solenoid is plugged. I’ve been chatting with Gary Ferraro, the transmission rebuilder who made the tear down video, thru YouTube and he seems to think a solenoid could cause this. The D clutch is engaged for both forward and reverse in this transmission, both of which are not working for me. The D clutch I removed was not worn out so I’m thinking either solenoid, valve body, or oil pump. I ordered the solenoids and will definitely air check the D clutch again
Here are my amperages. Sorry, I don't have graph info... too hard to see while driving. If you switch to numeric view you can watch the amperages change while the trans is shifting. The first image where solenoid 1 is at 0.0480 is in park with the engine running. The second image where it starts where solenoid 1 is at 0.848 is in drive (standard mode) engine running foot on the brake (static). See how your numbers compare to these. Please compare all the amperages as they work in coordination. Start here and see what you have.
I did turn it multiple time to make sure it seated on the two splines and the oil pump. When I say it needed to pull back out I’m talking about maybe 5mm, probably less. I did rebuild the valve body with the sonnax zip kit and a new separator plate. It was pretty dirty on the inside so I wouldn’t be surprised if a solenoid is plugged. I’ve been chatting with Gary Ferraro, the transmission rebuilder who made the tear down video, thru YouTube and he seems to think a solenoid could cause this. The D clutch is engaged for both forward and reverse in this transmission, both of which are not working for me. The D clutch I removed was not worn out so I’m thinking either solenoid, valve body, or oil pump. I ordered the solenoids and will definitely air check the D clutch again
Make sure you get the foam insulator for the solenoids and replace the one that's currently on the valve body. Mine didn't have one installed when it was originally assembled. it's supposed to keep particles away from the electrical connectors on the solenoids.
Here are my amperages. Sorry, I don't have graph info... too hard to see while driving. If you switch to numeric view you can watch the amperages change while the trans is shifting. The first image where solenoid 1 is at 0.0480 is in park with the engine running. The second image where it starts where solenoid 1 is at 0.848 is in drive (standard mode) engine running foot on the brake (static). See how your numbers compare to these. Please compare all the amperages as they work in coordination. Start here and see what you have.
your amperages are essentially identical to mine at those two conditions. I don't know that this rules the solenoids out from being an issue however. It just confirms that the TCM is doing what it is supposed to. What were the symptoms that you were seeing when you needed to replace the solenoids?
