Bad wheel hub?
Had a rubbing sound with the steering wheel anywhere but dead center, so I suspected it was going, but then yesterday it started making an intermittent, awful metallic screech in the 20-30 MPH range.
Seems clear cut but since I’m new to LR3 (coming from a DII) I thought I’d ask the pros.
Replace the whole hub? Bearing only? Something else needed? Anything else good to do at the same time?
Thanks!
Last edited by joshjellel; Jan 14, 2020 at 04:30 PM.
would seem to be a hug that's on its way out, but make sure you check al the other bushings as well.
They are a complete unit, not heard of anyone trying to replace the bearing.
I've done 3 now. Lot of info on here about how to do it and what to avoid
They are a complete unit, not heard of anyone trying to replace the bearing.
I've done 3 now. Lot of info on here about how to do it and what to avoid
Well you only checked it pretty much at the top. Should grab at 9/3 and then at 12/6. Form the video alone I could even guess an upper ball joint since you dont check the wheel the other way. Does that make sense? But you are probably correct that its a wheel hub. They are not hard to replace and I have a thread on it here some place. You will want some proper sockets and a very nice heavy duty (not harbor freight, trust me) breaker bar for the axel nut. Of course to be a total pain there are TWO different sized axel nuts out there in two different styles. Both will fit the the same axle though, its just a socket sizing difference as far as I know but when I did my passenger CV and hubs I bought nuts in both sizes. Also you want a deeper socket. A short one may be too short and using an extension may result in a twisted extension (again, trust me). Impact sockets are nice but they are too big to fit in the center cap area of the wheel and best practice is to break the axle nuts free when full wheel weight on them, prevents shock loading the CV joints.
Yeah, I checked 9/3, too, it just wasn’t in the video. Same slop in all directions. In fact, when I watched closely when shaking the wheel, the rotor wobbles while the caliper stays put. This really makes me suspect hub over suspension component. It would have definitely increased the value of the thread if I had recorded both of those things.
Thanks for the extra tips! I think I’m pretty equipped tool-wise. Not my first Rover rodeo. Just my first buck on an LR3. Thankfully this one is low(ish)-mileage and low-rust, so I’m hoping the job will go more smoothly than usual—does it ever?!
Thanks for the extra tips! I think I’m pretty equipped tool-wise. Not my first Rover rodeo. Just my first buck on an LR3. Thankfully this one is low(ish)-mileage and low-rust, so I’m hoping the job will go more smoothly than usual—does it ever?!
Last edited by joshjellel; Jan 14, 2020 at 08:28 PM.
You will want some proper sockets and a very nice heavy duty (not harbor freight, trust me) breaker bar for the axel nut. ... Also you want a deeper socket. A short one may be too short and using an extension may result in a twisted extension (again, trust me). Impact sockets are nice but they are too big to fit in the center cap area of the wheel and best practice is to break the axle nuts free when full wheel weight on them, prevents shock loading the CV joints.
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