EGR Valve - How To Clean?
Hi. I will be installing a new complete Thermostat housing assembly unit over the weekend. Because, slight Coolant leak - This unit is plastic, and has finally developed a small crack. (180,000 miles, 2008 LR3). My current Thermostat seems perfectly fine, so I'm going to keep this old one as a 'spare'. May need to slightly move the EGR Valve out of the way, to make the installation a little more easier - Provide a little more 'wiggle room'. Therefore, considering removing the EGR Valve, and clean it, as 'preventative' maintenance (never cleaned or replaced it before). Would probably use Throttle Body / Air Intake Cleaner spray? Will definitely be using new Gaskets (I believe there are 2 of them).
So here's my question - Any risk, or downside, to removing the EGR Valve and cleaning it? Any best practices? Anybody know what the torque settings are?
P.s. Will also be performing the following, since I'm already in the engine bay - Clean MAF Sensor. Remove and clean PCV valve. Remove and clean Throttle Body Intake; the metal piece with the 'flap'. Probably do a complete Coolant flush/clean/refill. If I do this, I will also probably fit a new Water Pump - I have one that I picked up a while ago, thought I would 'need' it. Will also check the various bits and pieces which run along the 2 Engine Belts, such as Idler Pulley, etc - Have done this twice before; easy job when you've done it before. Might as well also replace the plastic 'T' shaped Coolant Bleeder, which is prone to exploding - Previously put a new one in at 126,000 miles, in July 2017, but I think I'll replace it with Brass fittings - Menards is just a mile down the road. Will also clean, and re-grease, the Steering Shaft U-joint. What else would you do, or check, at the same time? I last changed Spark Plugs at 105,500 miles, June 2015. Have never checked / cleaned / replaced the Injectors.
Going on a 'wilderness' trip in a few weeks, and want to get everything in tip-top condition. Also want to get stuff done before the cold winter sets in, here in Madison, Wisconsin.
Cheers, Simon
So here's my question - Any risk, or downside, to removing the EGR Valve and cleaning it? Any best practices? Anybody know what the torque settings are?
P.s. Will also be performing the following, since I'm already in the engine bay - Clean MAF Sensor. Remove and clean PCV valve. Remove and clean Throttle Body Intake; the metal piece with the 'flap'. Probably do a complete Coolant flush/clean/refill. If I do this, I will also probably fit a new Water Pump - I have one that I picked up a while ago, thought I would 'need' it. Will also check the various bits and pieces which run along the 2 Engine Belts, such as Idler Pulley, etc - Have done this twice before; easy job when you've done it before. Might as well also replace the plastic 'T' shaped Coolant Bleeder, which is prone to exploding - Previously put a new one in at 126,000 miles, in July 2017, but I think I'll replace it with Brass fittings - Menards is just a mile down the road. Will also clean, and re-grease, the Steering Shaft U-joint. What else would you do, or check, at the same time? I last changed Spark Plugs at 105,500 miles, June 2015. Have never checked / cleaned / replaced the Injectors.
Going on a 'wilderness' trip in a few weeks, and want to get everything in tip-top condition. Also want to get stuff done before the cold winter sets in, here in Madison, Wisconsin.
Cheers, Simon
You can just spray the insides with brake cleaner - with it removed of course. Its just a metal plunger/solenoid mechanism.
New gaskets indeed! They are metal but coated, at least the TB gasket is. If you re-use, I highly recommend applying a very thin amount or high temp sealant. I did so with my EGR gaskets.
If you do a flush of the cooling system, I can not recommend enough the citric acid method. I still have to do mine but bought the citric powder from Amazon. It should be great for the heater core, which it known to clog up.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...esults.272539/
New gaskets indeed! They are metal but coated, at least the TB gasket is. If you re-use, I highly recommend applying a very thin amount or high temp sealant. I did so with my EGR gaskets.
If you do a flush of the cooling system, I can not recommend enough the citric acid method. I still have to do mine but bought the citric powder from Amazon. It should be great for the heater core, which it known to clog up.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...esults.272539/
Thanks for that tip - I use citric acid for my espresso and coffee makers - never thought of using it as a cooling system flush - makes perfect sense!
You probably could but I dont see why someone would want to. With older engine this was something people did for some slight benefit, but with modern engines there is no need.
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