Hi all...
Just a quick update, have a 2008 Ranger VIN "E" engine with a bit over 100K miles, just replaced the hydraulic timing chain tensioners and ran it up to about 2000 rpm (using an electric drill) with fresh 5W-30 synthetic oil and new filter, lots of oil pressure and no strange noises. Attached are photos of before (ancillary components attached) and after (long block). Moving the machine out to the shop within a few weeks...

 

Make sure you check the oil pan girdle for a place to install the oil temperature sensor. You have to have this sensor. I broke the wire to the sensor during installation of my engine and the truck went into fault mode. Lowered suspension, engine check light, etc. I can't see if there is a plug on yours or just a casting boss.
As I said before, I cannot stress enough the importance of at least changing the rear (passenger) side cam chain guides while you have the engine out. You have to pull the engine to change these. Ideally, you should do them all. Do it now.

 

@5280LR3 Thanks for that, we have not pulled the engine on the LR3 yet, but when I get out to the shop this week I'll examine the Ranger block. I was thinking of mounting the oil temp sensor to an extension off the oil sender location which is just forward of where the oil temp is on the LR3 engine. If not, there must be some way of tricking the temp sensor into believing that the oil is at some fixed temperature? As far as the timing chains go, they tightened right up as soon as we spun up the engine and it got oil pressure, so going with a pre-oiler/pressurization system from Moroso to ensure that chains are tight at startup. The Ford Explorer/Ranger forum has many tales of the 4.0L V6 SOHC timing chain issue and they are unanimous in advising pre-pressurization methods to eliminate chain slap at startup. I did install new hydraulic tensioners and with the Moroso unit should never hear the dry start ticking. I will be rebuilding the original engine with new chains, gears and whatever else is required, but am planning on some experiments with an Eaton M90 supercharger, maybe, perhaps, possibly... Thanks again for your help...

 

Bravo, you are all in!

 

Well, looks like I spoke too soon about that absolutely necessary oil temperature sender, we will either have to figure out how to make it look right to the ECU or use the upper oil pan from the Land Rover, unless by luck there is a dummy plug in the Ranger pan, some Explorers came with an oil level sensor in the same location. The LR3 ECU needs that oil temp measurement to calculate torque load which of course influences throttle control, blah, blah, blah so tricking the ECU is not going to be an option. I guess Wednesday will tell when I get out there...

 

I looked at a Moroso pre-oiler also. I'm leaning towards not installing one. Here's why: Once I had the engine installed, I held the accelerator pedal to the floor upon initial start up to keep the engine from firing to build full oil pressure before letting it run on its own. I didn't have any start up clatter then or at any start up since, no matter how long it has sat or how cold it was outside. I used OEM Ford tensioners, guides, chains and sprockets as well as the oil pump and plastic pickup tube. If you still want to pre-oil the engine, use the Land Rover feature of holding the pedal to the floor while cranking the engine to build pressure first. Let up and the accelerator and crank normally and it'll start pressurized. I don't think its necessary though.
Another thing I learned while working with the tensioners:
I call bull crap on pumping up the tensioners with oil manually to where they are rock hard before installing them. Ive seen a few youtube videos where this was claimed to need being done. I actually think this is what started my guide problems and breakage. The tensioners are spring loaded so they have initial tension until the oil pressure builds and they find their "happy" place. I believe if you jack these up with oil to full pressure and them screw them in they may be over extended which in turn will put too much pressure on the guides and break the plastic backing. Just screw them in as they are and crank the engine over with the pedal to the metal to build initial pressure.

I'm all for you installing the supercharger. I've looked at this also. The Ford Ranger setup might be a tough go for the LR3 as the throttle body is not even close to where it needs to be. The Range Rover Sport supercharger looks interesting. The TB is is close to correct position and the snout should be close to the correct length. It would need some major manifold work though. Maybe the Ranger intake and the Sport supercharger mating...

 

Well, I'm in learning mode, have had a lot of people tell me I'm crazy and maybe they're right, but I'll carry on and of course will have the spare rebuilt engine, assuming that the LR3 sensors and ancillaries are happy with the Ford long block. As far as the supercharger goes, it will be a rebuilt from an old T-Bird or whatever, am not going to spend a fortune on this machine, but do want to give it a reasonable low budget shot at success. As far as the tensioners go one of mine (rear chain) was very loose initially (about 3/8" of play) so I explored options and replaced the hydraulic units (Ford advice). The Explorer/Ranger group seems vehement on the pre pressurization route and it does seem logical so I'm willing to give it a try. I do not want to do this engine removal thing again if I can help it and I do not have unlimited funds for extensive experiments. The bottom line is that whatever works reliably is what I want, but am certainly having a hard time getting the right information. I'll update/report my progress and include problems and solutions, am sure that others will benefit...

Edit: I'm also sure that many refreshing beverages will be consumed during the process of implementing and completing this project...

 

Well @5280LR3, looks like I will have to figure out how to re-invent the LR3 oil temperature sensor location or use the oil pan from the LR3. I sure hope to figure out a solution, the indent is there but plugged and not threaded, will have to wait until the machine is at the shop and we get the engine out before the crying begins. The crying part won't likely last long, there are always solutions if you persevere. Have we all not seen those Russians solving these complex problems with simple hand tools on YouTube? Or maybe not...???...

Edit on June 27...
Tested yesterday and oil pressure 55 lbs, compression all about 190, we are moving the LR3 out to the shop this weekend, will likely start engine removal next Tuesday, Monday is Canada Day holiday..

Edit on July03...
Hood removed, fluids drained, engine fan clutch removed, skid plates removed, more to come next week...

 

Im right where you are now. There’s a lot stuff in the way bottom side. Your insight has been helpful. Keep us posted.

 

OK, get the oil temperature sensor plug off the lower drivers side (North America) oil pan BEFORE removing the starter motor, and remove BOTH exhaust manifolds. the Ford overhead valve covers will NOT accommodate the Land Rover intake manifold so be really careful at engine removal time, we are removing the engine mounts once we get some tension on the engine, have fabricated a homemade mount which lifted the Ford engine, stand and my 160 pound friend so we feel safe using it to pull the engine, likely this Saturday.