On a recent thread I described a lot of problems I was having with the EAS on my 2007 LR3. The compressor was sounding funny and not inflating the corners and the front end was on the bump stops and then a day later the back end. I had water damage to my terrain selector switch and dealt with it first (thanks, houm_wa!)
I had rebuilt the compressor about two years ago and when I opened up the case, good lord, yellow desiccant poured out everywhere. It was basically a dust bomb. One of the seals on the dryer had ruptured and sent that crap everywhere. So I immediately ordered a new eBay compressor with a 2 yr warranty. Since the truck was out of commission for a while I inspected cleaned out the front and middle valve blocks which were in fine shape. I couldn't disconnect the rear block (even after dropping the spare tire), so I'll continue hoping for the best with that. Once the new compressor arrived I installed it along with a repair to the two rear hoses that would NOT come off. I think they are the intake and exhaust hoses. The new unit ran great and after calibrating the corners with my GAP tool it seemed like I was done.






Well the next morning the the front was drooping quite a bit. Crap, so I reinspected the front valve block for tightness. It was fine but when lifting the truck a little higher with the floor jack I heard it. HSSSSS coming from the front right air strut. Well, at least I found the next problem.
I immediately ordered an air strut from Lucky8 and it came the next weekend. After watching a few vids on how to do it, especially oxmanagain's process I got in there and enjoyed putting that thing in. His tips saved me tons of time. Accessing the inboard bolt through the engine bay and unclipping the air hose for more slack were big helps. After charging up the system and calibrating again, it was all good to go.


The bad news is I discovered that the rear upper control arms bushings are shot. That is going to be an epic job that I know that I cannot afford someone else doing. I guess I need to start saving up for a reciprocating saw and a pile of cutting blades...

 

Good work. Plan on replacing the other strut if you did not, it may fail soon and its best to replace in pairs for proper balance.

Did you puge the air lines when the blocks were off? Might have been a good idea just to make sure no gunk can get into the valve blocks again. As for the dryer, that looks like water somehow got into it. In all the years of working on EAS systems I have never seen one quite like that from a vehicle in service. Usually only see that from a vehicle with cut lines siting in a field/junk yard.

The upper arms, I dont think the bolts are prone to rusting up like the rears or front lowers. Tight space to work from what I have read but not a terribly difficult project. The rear end stuff, now thats another story. Nonetheless and sawsall on hand would be a grid idea. Start soaking with penetrating oil every time you think of it.

 

No, I did not do the other side. I figured I can get one shipped quickly enough to swap it when it goes south whenever. Didn’t think about balance being an issue.
I didn’t do that either. I didn’t find any debris in the center block so I assumed everything was okay. I don’t know how the dryer got so bad other than having those seals fail. I didn’t have it in water nor heavy rain.
The upper rears are what I’m talking about. I pulled on the top of the tire when truck was lifted and felt lots of movement. I’ve seen some write ups and videos and it looks like a nightmare. I’m sure mine are rusted to hell. But just in case I get lucky I’ll begin spraying PB Blaster weekly. This job won’t be happening right away. I’ve already spent a lot on it and need to save up for more parts and tools.