And to think this was a project I was not looking forward to doing..... So easy a caveman could do it! No issues at all and it was very straight forward.

First you really want to read scooterfever's thread. Seems he is no longer active here.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...cement-126484/

In that above thread is a handy video, I found this one handy to for an overall idea of what the job is:

Stuff I used:
New crank bolt, required and about $25 USD.
New seal, about $25 USD (leave the special seal holder on the seal until install)
Crank pulley/harmonic balancer removal kit - there is only one kit that works and it pretty much required.
Electrical box conduit adapter. Bought at Menards for about $5 USD, BPFPBA007 is the part number.
24mm socket, 3/4" drive
3/4" breaker or such with a long handle
M8x1.25 Metric Hand Tap - Scooter mention this and it was essential for me. Very glad I read his thread and bought these!
Cleaning supplies


Start by removing the fan and upper/lower fan shroud. Then put something to protect your radiator! Remove the main drive belt and tensioner. You can leave the accessory belt for now. Then you will want to use a tap to clean the two crank holder tool locators. I used a tiny screw driver to clean then out first and sprayed some cleaner. I then found it was actually best to use one of the bolts with the crank holding kit to start into them a little. If I did not do this the taps had a hard time starting. Run the taps a few times while cleaning them out. They do bottom out and are pretty shallow, they threaded holes do not pass through the back of the pulley. You may want to use a camera for a good view as there are six holes total, but only two are threaded. When I had one clean I inserted one tool to help keep me going straight into the second with the tap. Pro tip! Don't have a proper tap kit? Whack a small socket on the end and call it a day.







Once your threaded are cleaned out and the crank holding tool bolts thread in and out easily, install the crank tool so it will rest on the passenger side frame (North America build). You may want to rotate the crank so the tool aligns close to the rail before install. Otherwise when you start to crank it will hit hoses, etc. You do not need to tight the tool bolts much and I found in my case of the holes seemed to be a little shallow and would not even let the bolt tight down 100%. Not an issue at all. Then take your 24mm set of choice and break the crank bolt free. Should come free easily enough. I was expecting more of a fight, hence the 3/4" gear but 1/2" may do the job too - I may just be traumatized by axle bolts......... The bolt had thread lock so you will be backing it out for a while with tools, not by hand.





Once the bolt is removed, discard or set on mantle for entire family to enjoy. Now you need to remove the pulley itself. Remove the holding tool. It is perfectly fine to pull on it if needed, you can safely rotate the engine. Now install the small metal disc from the kit with the o-ring facing into the engine. It will snap in place. This protect the crank from damage that can be cause by the tool. Image below shows that little disc installed. The second image shows an issue, small one. The kit came with those chrome bolts already hanging out with the metal block. They do not work, too long and probably for another engine. Just use the black hex head bolts from before. Shorter and will work fine. Once those small bolts are in place, drive the large center bolt which should also be 24mm. The pulley will start to come forward, you may even hear a slight pop. You can now remove the accessory belt which has been keeping some slight tension on the pulley and keeping it from rotating. And now there is a cool trick for pulley removal. Loosen the removal tool and take a heavy hammer and gently bag the pulley back toward the engine. If you got it to pull forward enough with the removal tool it will go back and suddenly be very, very loose. This is because the crank bolt actually drives are small conical wedge and by pulling everything forward you make room behind the pulley to drive it back and right off that conical wedge. Otherwise you have to fight that wedge all the way forward with the pulley. If you look below, you can see the wedge (has a break in it at 11 o'clock). It is pop frees, completely remove the tool and wedge. Pulley should come right off not.





With everything removed it should look like this, a nice clean seal and total disappointment that you thought it was leaking and it was not..... But I digress..... Note the dimply now cased in the disk by the removal tool. This is why you install it. Lots of pressure which could maybe damage the crank threads.




Next you want to remove the two-part seal. I mention that it is two parts because it may come out that way and you do not need to be alarmed. I did not have a seal puller so I simply used the fan wrench to co along the crank shaft and hook behind the seal and pry it out carefully. Keep in mind there is a timing chain right behind there! But this worked really well to remove it. My slide hammer would not have fit with the radiator in place.





Now you want to clean things really well. Recommend spraying on the rags to avoid getting too much on the chains or in the oil sump. Once things are clean you are ready to remove the seal from its special holder that keeps the shape of it to a specific tolerance. The seal it made from PFTEPEPEP whatever and basically shrinks to fit the balancer pulley, hence the plastic bit they ship with. Remove the metal disc from the kit. Carefully vacuum the crank bolt threads to make sure they are clean, DO not suck up any oil or yo have to clean everything again. And do not use any oil on any surface for install. Clean and dry install only. For my setup I used that conduit box adapter and parts from the crank holding kit as pictured below. I only threaded in that large bolt a very small amount util it stoped, its threads do not match the crank bolt threads but it was plenty for a bite. I then spun the metal block around with the conduit adapter very well centered on the seal. I would back off the setup a few times to make sure I was getting the proper depth. There is NO lip on the timing cover, you can drive this seal all the way inside if not careful! In my case the seal's edge sat about 1 to 1.5mm below the metal edge. Hard to tell in pic below. Have to pull back the dust lip to check. Once installed I did another gentle vacuum of area to remove any debris.






Now you need to slide on the pulley with a gentle turn clockwise if needed. Try to bottom it out all the way. Insert the cone wedge and then the bolt. Hand tighten as best you can. You can use your 24mm setup and tighten until the engine turns. At that point you will want to again position the two thread holes in the pulley do you can position the holding tool against the driver side frame which is hidden behind a forest of hoses. ALSO NOTE THAT AN AIR LINE RESTS RIGHT ON TOP THAT FRAME RAIL. So once the tool is installed and in position, flip that air line above the tool end to prevent damage. Now crank the bolt to 280 foot pound. Mine goes to 250 so I reach that and did an ugga-dugga for a little more.



Now install your tensioners, belts, etc. But make sure your Rover is not started for at least four hours so the crank seal can mould around the pulley. If oil were to get between it may never seal correctly. In my case it will sit over night and I will crank the engine by hand a few times before starting. Total time was under 3 hours.