Well, I replaced the PS hoses and that fixed the leaks in that system, but now I have a slow leak from the front crankshaft oil seal: LAND ROVER PARTS - SEAL - FRONT CRANKSHAFT 4 CYLINDER & V-8

So, I guess I get to keep the LeakyDisco handle for now.

I consulted the D1 workshop manual from the RAVE and it looks like I need some LR tool to pull off the pulley and extract the seal.

Has anyone here replaced this part, and if so is it a pain in the neck or doable at home?

 

People are able to get crank pulley bolt loose by a variety of means, including: air wrench (IF BELT STILL ON), breaker bar wedged against ground and bump starter, shop fabircated tool (there were posts from someone who made up said tool in their shop and published drawing), tangled serpantine belt (this makes stress on water pump), "necktie" of old serpantine belt around pulley, push belt thru a 2 foot cheater pipe, tighten necktie and clamp with vise grips, brace cheater pipe against frame to prevent rotation. The pulley bolt torque is on the order of 185 foot pounds. Then pulley slides off. One poster wrote about putting wood screws into the old seal, and pulling it out, don't have to take front cover off.

As a temp bandaid, you can goop a finger-ful of RTV around the seal, let dry, crank engine, RTV will split to hairline, reduce (but not stop) leak.

 

I used the RTV trick 4 years ago, it stopped the leak and lasted for 3 years.
Then I used White Shepard seal conditioner, that has worked for a year now.
Next time it gets fixed correctly.
All you need is a 1/2" breaker bar and a impact socket, put the socket on the crank pulley nut, remove the fuel pump fuse, bumper starter.
Remove pulley.
You will need the seal removal tool, you can buy it at any autoparts store.
You will need to torque down the crank pulley nut when putting it back together and you will need to keep the engine from turning.
Easiest way is to remove the inspection cover from the bottom of the bell housing and shoving a pry bar against the flywheel.
If you have the oil pan off you can wedge it against the crank.

 

I think I'll try RTV for a while. The leak is minimal. Thanks!

 

But I'm keeping my LeakyDisco handle!!

I have full confidence that another leak(s) will appear in time.

 

I've been putting this off for far too long. Think I'll try the RTV trick to get me through winter. When I get that removal tool from the auto parts store, what name should I be looking for/what's it called?

 

The seal can be removed with a pair of pliers. Grip the seal from the inside and twist it back and forth and pull till it comes out. Just don't dent the cover.

 

Here's link to thread that contains tool drawing and specs from Boris, also pix of RTV applied to crank seal area for testing purposes. Clean oil off first, a little alcohol or brake parts cleaner helps.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...nk+pulley+tool