So... I had been putting this job off but at the end of the day it really wasn't that bad. There were some things that made it easier so I thought I would document those points here for everyone.

From a tools requirement, I needed the following:

• Jaguar / Land Rover crank pulley removal tools. Generic tools can be purchased on eBay, and they are not particularly expensive. These consist of two sets of tools sold as one package: the holder that secures the harmonic balancer in place as you apply > 280 foot pounds of torque to the balancer / pulley nut, and a puller to separate the balancer from the crankshaft.
• M8x1.25 tap. There are two M8 bolt holes inside the balancer / pulley for the purpose of securing the removal tools, and these will inevitably be rusted. You will need to retap the holes to insert the necessary bolts for removal.
• Installation tool for the seal. I 3d printed my own tool. More on this below.
• Seal puller. I used a standard "T-bar" shaped puller from the auto parts store and I found I needed to grind it down a bit to fit but it worked well.
• 24mm Socket for the crank bolt and breaker bar with a 1" iron pipe length to assist with applying torque.
• Torque wrench -- torque spec on the crank bolt is 280 ft-lbs.
• Edit: reminder that you will need a new crank bolt, it's a torque to yield bold and it isn't intended to be reused.

At the same time as replacing the seal, I replaced my water pump and radiator. Including those other replacements, this was a "1 box of gloves" job that took me my spare time over 2 weekends. All three jobs done at once (and I've done each of these jobs before on an '05 Jaguar) took me maybe 6 to 7 hours. There was one youtube video that I found gave a helpful overview of the details of the crank pulley removal: .

The first step to removing the pulley is to clean the two M8 bolt holes in the pulley with an M8x1.25 tap. This then allows the pulley hold-down tool to be inserted and held in place by two M8 bolts. For removal, it is important that the crank shaft not be allowed to spin counter-clockwise. I got lucky and the hold-down tool aligned perfectly with the passenger-side inner frame rail. If it had not, I would have spun the crank clockwise until the hold-down tool would have been properly positioned.

Here's the setup for removal:


You can see that the hold-down tool is angled a bit to get around one of the tensioner pulleys; this did not effect operation of the hold-down tool.

With an extension on the breaker bar, I was able to remove the crank pulley bolt. The next step is to remove the hold-down tool and insert the pulley removal tool which uses the same M8 bolts. Here is a picture of the pulley removal tool, which allowed me to get the pulley off very quickly:

With the pulley removed, you now have access to the crank seal and can use your seal puller to remove it. Here's a picture of my old crank seal so you can see what the crankshaft looks like with the pulley removed:



Note that there is an outer raised lip on the timing cover, but there is also an inner lip within the outer lip as well. I determined that the seal itself (not the protruding lip of the seal but the main body of the seal) was flush with the inner lip (not the raised outer lip), and I then 3d printed an install tool that would have a space for the outer protruding lip of the seal but would push the seal flush with the inner lip. Here is the install tool I printed. I first attempted this with 20% density and... it broke. I then printed it with 100% infill and it worked perfectly. You will see that I drew a black line around the tool parallel with the installation face. This line I used as an alignment marker; in starting to insert the seal, it allowed me to confirm that the installation tool was positioned correctly relative to the face of the timing cover.


An install tool like this is useful because there is no backstop on the timing cover, and it is possible to push the crank seal in too far. Having the tool stop when it hits the inner lip of the timing cover prevents pushing the seal in too far.

With the seal installed, you reattach the pulley and use the hold-down tool (this time with the tool braced against the US-driver side inner frame rail) and torque to 280 ft-lbs.

I did not have a workshop manual available and the manual may have other suggestions / requirements. Anyway, I hope this is helpful to someone. All in all, it was not a bad job.

 

Great write up!

 

if you don't mind me asking, what prompted the repair? Leak?

 

Nasty oil leak, if I idled for any amount of time it would begin to drip onto the driveway. Last year I had replaced the oil filter housing gasket (also a leak prone spot) but I had a lot of oil still coming from above and I concluded that it had to be the crank seal which I believe was original to the truck (230,000 miles and nearly 20 years). The picture of the pulley removed supports this, as the oil drips onto the crank from above and then is thrown to the right side (looking at the engine from the front) of the timing cover by the clockwise spin of the crankshaft (the left side looks much cleaner).

 

Thanks for this. Ordering stuff to finally tackle this project. Been putting it off for far too long. No drips, yet, but lots of oil being flung and getting an occasional oil burning smell.

 

Any info on the 3D printed tool? I can not find the factory one without spending money on a new one.... 3D tool may be the cheapest option by far.