Anyone have a universal kit or such that works as a seal installer? I have everything on hand to do this job less a tool to properly set its depth in the timing cover. Too deep and it can fall right in, there is no lip that catches it. The proper tool is made by OTC, part number 303-1100. Fond two in Germany and neither will ship to the states. I did fine one on Amazon, linked below, that may do the job just fine. I just hate to find out it does not and end up with my truck stuck until I find something that can do it.


Edit, leaving the link but I don't think that kit will work. Broke out the caliper and the pressing surface ID is 67mm with an OD of 75mm. So whatever presses in the seal needs to be exactly that. The kit maxes out at 64mm. I will try to look around some more.

Also of interest, the crank seal is two parts that snap together. Weird.

 

If you are comfortable speccing it out, it should not be hard for a machine shop with a lathe to make you a tool. Not an original idea, I've just seen the LR Time youtube channel do it enough times for it to seem reasonable.

 

I may have found a "tool" to do the job for $5 USD.... A 2.5" electrical conduit to box coupling. It is dang near a perfect fit. And I think I can use the crank pulley holding took kit parts to drive it in. Guess I will find out. But even so a gentle hammer should even work. I mean if a 3D printed one works, this should hold up fine. The plastic is pretty thick and the one I actually bought from Menards has a much thicker "hat" which is the end where force will be applied to drive it in. The smaller end fit really good on the seal's surface with only slight contact on the inner dust lip. I just have to be careful not to drive it in too far. I will be making some marks on the tool with the old seal in place. And with a caliper I should be able to set the new one to the same depth.

Note for anyone that reads this. The surfaces must be super clean and free of any oil and that very much includes the balancer. You do not lubricate this seal in any way to drive it in or apply any lubricants when putting the balancer in - which is what the seal interfaces with. Also once the balancer pulley is back in place you do not start the vehicle for at least four hours. The new seal has to conform to the new surfaces with no risk of oil getting between.

 

New seal installed. Sadly it was not leaking! I was deceived by messy oil! But my setup worked well. The "tool" was an electrical box adapter, part BPFPBA007. Used in conjunction with the crank holding tool kit. You really need the crank holding kit, about $80 USD, to do this job. With that kit I used the puller to install the seal with the electrical box adapter. Carefully centered the adapter onto the tool and spun the metal block. The bolt was barely finger tight and not touch! It does NOT match the crank thread but got enough bite to do this job. Initially I tried with a hammer but it was tricky and hard to get it even.

Again, when installing the surfaces must be clean of all oil and the Rover must now sit for at least four hours so the seal can sorta mould itself to the balancer for a proper fit.