....I'm pretty sure the TC works all the time. Did you mean CDL rather than TC?

 

By TC I mean transfer case, nothing can lock in normal mode. At least the display shows no locks at all.

 

Okay roger that....I took TC to mean Traction Control.

So that said, yeah it's basically AWD with Traction Control. That's awesome to know it still ***** out! I too have one with the locker and my traction control rarely engages.

 

Just an update. Turned out may diff lock actuator was bad and replacement resolved a couple codes. However when I wrote this thread it had not failed completely and its possible the software update may have prevented me from having to replace mine. Now that I have the GAP Tool I also did the diff locking module update in addition to replacement. Sadly my new actuator, a generic at $150, may be defective form the start. I am generating a code about a transmission component slipping. P0894-00. I thought this might have meant my rear diff clutch pack was toast, but it turns out the code is related to a magnetic brake within the actuator itself. I have a thread that goes over the actuator and this new problem:

https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...ection-101515/

 

Can anyone confirm if my rear differential locker is “chirping” or this normal? I’m getting the fault codes:

• P080A-00 (2F) Clutch position is not learnt
• P186D-00 (2F) Clutch actuator stuck

I believe these faults just may be the faults resulting in a lot of other system faults and why my air suspension is not working.

Below is a video of the test. I’m using my phone to record the video, the same phone I’m using to initiate the test, so I wasn’t able to record the very beginning as I wasn’t able to transition from the Gap software to my camera fast enough to capture the beginning. The software says “test complete”, but does that mean it’s working properly or does that mean it cycled through the steps yet there still could be a problem?

I just bought an iiD tool. If I need to replace the rear differential locker, can I recalibrate it with the iiD tool. Is the test the same as the the recalibration?

 

Not normal at all. Almost sounds a bit like gear rubbing. Yes the IID Tool can calibrate the new motor actuator and yes, same procedure as calibration. I assume you tried a few calibration attempts already?

 

Yes, I've tried a number of calibrations, all of which sound roughly the same. I was hoping cycling a couple self tests would break it free and start working. Though I didn't read prior to performing the tests, that the differential gear oil should be warmed to 140 degrees. The truck has been throwing the code for some while so I assume it's not going to clear even if I get the diff warmed up and run the test again. I will pull the locking motor off the truck today. I ordered the necessary MDL fluid to do a change as well. I bet a fluid change has never been done.

So it seems when whoever pulls the locking motor off and inspects it, that they can't find anything necessarily wrong with it. I hear they aren't used very often, unless you're frequently off-roading. Do they just become frozen, due to the lack of use? If I pull my off, inspect it and everything looks good, can I break it free, lubricate it and just reinstall it? I'm just hoping for the best case scenario here. Most likely, given its making sounds, something is moving, that its not frozen and something is broken. Is there a rebuild kit for it?

 

I don't think the motor is stuck otherwise you would not have the noise. Unless the gear broke/stripped. If ignored too long, you can compound the issues including damaged clutches because the actuator may not have the diff in the full open position. By correct fluid, I assume you mean for carbon clutches not any other type, right? And the rear diff is actuated and used often on any slippery surface or when needed even in regular drive mode. So there is a good chance it had been exercised more than you think. Even a spirited acceleration can cause it to lock/partial lock. That is nice thing about a passive variable locking e-diff.

What you really need to do is remove and inspect it. See if you can see damage to the gears, etc. It is already well lubricated by the diff fluid. No kit, just replace the actuator. My second aftermarket one is still working perfectly fine after years of abuse to the point that I dont even worry about it anymore. Just works. At the time it was only $150 USD.

 

I took the rear diff lock actuator off. It looks good. No broken gear teeth. You're right in that it gets lubricated well. The bearings feel good and the gears move okay. What I did notice when turning the motor is it squealing and with some resistance. I disassembled the motor housing to find a lot of black residue (I assume brush material). The brushes weren't too bad, probably 1/2 way worn. Upon spinning the armature a few times, something clicked, the squealing stopped and it started turning a lot easier. I think some debris was jammed in the brushes preventing good contact with the commutator or something jamming the shaft (it had a fair bit of resistance when turning it). I cleaned everything with electrical contact cleaner and polished up the commutator. I'm probably going to regret this, but I reinstall it. With the brushes 1/2 worn I suppose there is a high likelihood that they're going to jam again soon. The job was not easy, but I'll do it again I suppose. After installation I ran the self test again and it sounds a whole lot better. The clutch actuator stuck fault cleared, but the clutch position not learnt fault did not. Its reporting the code from 2023, before I owned the vehicle. How do recalibrate this? Will this clear upon driving the vehicle? I need to let the silicone dry before I drive it. I looked at the iiD app. I don't see this particular calibration listed. I believe it's updated with the latest software. I'll hook it back up the PC and see if I forgot something.

I ordered Ravenol MDL fluid for the rear diff.

 

Drive it and try the calibration again. Also you may have to wait for the Rover to "seep" to get that code to clear. It like to stick around as I found out, even when cleared it comes back. Yet I noticed when I let the truck sleep and come back, all good. So it could be that easy. And if you do have to swap it again, will be much quicker the second time I bet. Not sure what Ravenol MDL exactly is, but these have carbon clutches which are not common at all so you can not use any other fluid unless specifically spec's for carbon clutches.