I had an issue with the transfer case being stuck in low. Suspension was locked in standard, Automatic park brake and other issues. I got that sorted. Misconnected plugs. But now when I turn the truck off and pull out they key. I wait five seconds and the flashers start flashing, the fan comes on, the radio comes on and the park brake sets. Remote won’t work. No apparent faults. What have I done. I tried a hard reset. No luck. Help! Phil

2006 Range Rover sport 40k miles.

 

Guessing it hasn't rained recently or gone though the car wash

 

No rain no car wash. Arrrrgh. Love these vehicles. Phil

 

Something is either misconnected or not connected. I would suggest you go through everything you did the first go round to make sure its not what I think it is.

 

Went through it again this afternoon. Looks like everything is connected correctly. Abran. Your comment is causing me some anxiety. What do you think that it is? Phil

 

The saga continues. I took off early today to take the the Range Rover sport to the shop. I got home and put the battery back in. I turned the truck off to see if anything had changed. It was still turning on accessories when I removed the key. Ran up to the shop, about 7 miles away. It ran perfectly. I got there and turned off the truck to show the owner the problem. Of course the truck had healed itself on the drive to the shop. Turned it off. Removed the key and.......nothing. Just lime it should be. The RRS was no longer roaring back to life.

As as you may recall, this saga started when I had an alternator issue. The fan clutch had started to engage and the cooler wasn’t coming on. Tale tell signs of an alternator problem. When we checked the alternator it was true to form not “putting out any voltage. “. The tech pulled the alternator fuse in the underhood fuse box. Wither the fuse removed, The alternator started putting out voltage. I left it for the shop to find the electrical issues. Something is messed up. The story continues......


phil

 

what a nightmare. It has to be something someone touched if you have no codes. As I mentioned I have seen the turning on of systems after key removed be caused by a bad ground cable and by a bad instrument cluster. You would have comm codes with the cluster relating to all the other modules if it is the cluster.

 

the only things that I get are related to the seat motors not timely responding, a headlight issue and the lower left footwell acutator, no CEL, just the codes that show up using the Gap Tool scanner. Really strange. I noticed the alternator issues when the fan clutch started to engage at random times and the cooler wouldn't come on. Everything else seemed to work fine. I tested the voltage at the battery and found that I wasn't getting proper voltage. Hopefully The British Garage in Mira Mar area of San Diego can get it sorted. Pretty good group that knows their stuff. I will report back next week when they, hopefully, find the issues! Phil

 

Well things just get stranger and stranger. I took the Range Rover Sport to a local indy shop here in San Diego. Good guys. Honest and straightforward. I had them look at three things, the alternator charging issue, recalibration of the left side lower blend door actuator and the AFS headlight not moving, crossed lens issue.

While I was there dropping the truck, they looked at the alternator issue. There was voltage coming in to the alternator fuse under the hood. There was no power on the other side of the fuse. Yes the fuse was good. Some sort of short somewhere. They pulled the fuse and the charging was working.......After a few days, the determined that the problem is likely the CJB. They pulled one of the fuses there and reinserted the fuse in the engine bay fuse box. They told me that the alternator is now charging. I haven't tested the voltage at the battery, I will tonight, but my Gap Tool shows 11.7 volts.......They couldn't get the blend door actuator to work correctly. Something might be haywire with the harness. They told me that the lights are bad, need to replace them or get some non afs lights and shut down the AFS in the computer.

Now the light are still crossed, but the left one point to the ground about 20 feet in front of the vehicle. Not good. Is there any way to adjust the lights to have them point straight and forward? I know that there are some adjustment screws on each of the lights, here I need to get into the lights and make adjustments on the light actuators to straighten them out. thanks Phil