Ok. Does it matter if the steering angle LOOKS pretty reasonable (I was looking at that today as one of the live values)? Or does recalibrating it, regardless of how accurate it already is, still reset something?

 

I must be calibrated when installed. If it is off by only a few degrees then the truck assumes there are issues because the wheel speed sensors do not match what should be a turning truck. Take only couple seconds to calibrate anyway. Best to drive down a straight road for a hundred feet so the truck is pointed dead straight to take out any tilt you may have in the steering wheel. Unless you have a good alignment and the wheel itself does sit nice and proper. Then just calibrate it as you sit - again just make sure you wheel is exactly as it should be as if you were driving dead straight.

 

Ok, thanks. I'll try that. Probably won't be for two days until I get a chance to do it.

 

Still no luck. I went out and calibrated this morning before work. It was off by about nine degrees, but calibrating it didn't get rid of the three amigos. I'm starting to wonder if I'm missing passing on some important information or something. After clearing codes and rescanning I have the same three codes as always:

L319 - LR3 2006
Vehicle scanned on 14-10-2025 08:51
Using IIDTool BT V4.0 B4148

Body Control

• B1A93-93 (2F) Invalid roof position - Component failure - no operation
  ( on 14-10-2025 08:51:17 at 158900 km )
• B1B02-28 (2F) Low frequency coil - General signal failure - signal bias level is out of range/zero adjustment failure
  ( on 14-10-2025 08:51:36 at 158900 km )
• B1C57-14 (2F) Passive start ignition relay coil circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground or open
  ( on 14-10-2025 08:51:18 at 158900 km )

Once again, last night I left the suspension in Off-road height and pulled the fuses. This morning the right rear corner was on the bump stops (leaking air bag) and the other three corners were still inflated. Started the vehicle and the compressor topped up the reservoir with no changes to any of the suspension heights. Started to drive and it got the amber suspension dash light, a "suspension lowered" message on the info screen, and the right corner raised to (roughly) Access height and the other three corners dropped to (roughly) Access height.

Calibrated the steering, reread codes, same three codes and the three amigos on. (sigh...)

 

Nice degrees is nuts. At this point, try a hard reset. Disconnect battery for 10 minutes. Lets just clear all the crap out and see if that works. From there forward we go. But I see no code that would cause your faults. That is why I suspected the steering sensor since it can be way off, cause lots of math issues but not actually generate a fault.

The only code that is odd is that low freq coil. I really have no clue what that is about. Unless the body control module is having a really bad day and causes all these other faults? It could I suppose.

 

Ok, I did do a hard reset yesterday, but that was before calibrating the steering angle. I'll try to get the hard reset done tomorrow.

 

Ok, I just realized that I have been posting bad information (hard to troubleshoot when the correct information isn't provided! ). I was thinking that the three dash lights that I have on are referred to as the "three amigos", but I think I have different lights on. The lights that I have on are: ABS (red), Brake systems (red), and Dynamic Stability Control (amber). These lights have been on the whole time and nothing that I have tried has extinguished any of them. I also have the Suspension (amber) on now, and it normally comes on once I start driving, but always clears when I clear faults.

I did a hard reset today. Disconnected the battery cables, waited a few minutes and then shorted them together. Left them like that for about fifteen minutes and then reconnected the battery. I had pulled the suspension fuses so just the leaky right rear corner was low. As soon as I started the vehicle the ABS, Brake systems and DSC lights all stayed on. The reservoir had leaked down a bit so the compressor fired up to bring the pressure up to 258psi. I cleared codes and then checked them and got:L319 - LR3 2006
Vehicle scanned on 16-10-2025 11:57
Using IIDTool BT V4.0 B4148

Body Control

• B1A93-93 (2F) Invalid roof position - Component failure - no operation
  ( on 16-10-2025 11:57:42 at 158900 km )
• B1C57-14 (2F) Passive start ignition relay coil circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground or open
  ( on 16-10-2025 11:57:43 at 158900 km )

I started driving and right away the Suspension (amber) light came on and the right rear corner inflated to Access height and the other three corners dropped to Access height (I'd left all four corners higher than access). I checked codes again and now had:L319 - LR3 2006
Vehicle scanned on 16-10-2025 12:03
Using IIDTool BT V4.0 B4148

Body Control

• B1A93-93 (2F) Invalid roof position - Component failure - no operation
  ( on 16-10-2025 11:57:42 at 158900 km )
• B1B02-28 (2F) Low frequency coil - General signal failure - signal bias level is out of range/zero adjustment failure
  ( on 16-10-2025 11:58:38 at 158900 km )
• B1C57-14 (2F) Passive start ignition relay coil circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground or open
  ( on 16-10-2025 11:57:44 at 158900 km )
• B1D14-15 (2F) Interior lamps 2 circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to battery or open
  ( on 16-10-2025 12:03:25 at 158900 km )

After driving for about twenty minutes I checked the codes again and got:L319 - LR3 2006
Vehicle scanned on 16-10-2025 13:22
Using IIDTool BT V4.0 B4148

Body Control

• B1A93-93 (2F) Invalid roof position - Component failure - no operation
  ( on 16-10-2025 12:55:55 at 158910 km )
• B1B02-28 (2F) Low frequency coil - General signal failure - signal bias level is out of range/zero adjustment failure
  ( on 16-10-2025 13:01:24 at 158910 km )
• B1C57-14 (6C) Passive start ignition relay coil circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground or open
  ( on 16-10-2025 12:55:56 at 158910 km )
• B1D12-15 (2E) Volumetric alarm power circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to battery or open
  ( on 16-10-2025 12:59:55 at 158910 km )
• B1D14-15 (2C) Interior lamps 2 circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to battery or open
  ( on 16-10-2025 12:59:53 at 158910 km )
• U0155-87 (2C) LCD Gauge Communication Lost - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
  ( on 16-10-2025 13:07:54 at 158910 km )

Vehicle Dynamic

• C1A77-16 (0B) Valve relay supply circuit - General electrical failure - circuit voltage below threshold
  ( on 16-10-2025 13:01:26 at 158914 km )

Any new suggestions with this information and my correction on which lights are illuminated on the dash? Does the ABS need to be read with a different tool, or why doesn't the Gap Tool show anything related to ABS when the ABS light is on?

Thanks!

 

It's been seven months since I last posted. In the meantime I've been researching, tinkering, booking into the local Land Rover shop, and walking away in frustration. Last month I was digging into my electrical issues with the encouragement of a friend. Anyways, I've got my electrical issues repaired! :-) If anyone is interested in how, then read on...

There is a grey twenty-two pin electrical connector down low on the left hand A-pillar (I think there are actually eighteen wires in the connector). There was obvious corrosion on at least one pin, and a trip to the shop by the previous owner had the shop cut one wire out of the plug and solder the wire together to bypass the corrosion. There was no change to the issues as a result. My last trip to our Land Rover specialty shop for diagnostics and trouble shooting resulted in them telling me I needed to replace the yaw-rate sensor because they couldn't recalibrate it. They felt replacing the sensor was the most logical first step and if that didn't make any difference then they would have to start tracing wiring and looking for bad connections. They left it in my court because yaw rate sensors are no longer available as new parts

I found a used yaw rate sensor on ebay and installed it, with no improvement. My friend pushed me to keep digging into the wiring and ended up back at the 22 pin connector with the corroded pin. He felt that the corrosion was significant enough that I should cut ALL of the wires off the connector and hard-wire them all together (just to definitely eliminate the connector as a source of problems). I had been thinking that anyways, but didn't really want to do it. His push got me moving and I ended up cutting the connector out completely and crimping all of the wires together. On initial testing it didn't seem to make any difference.

I went to work for a few days and my wife continued to drive the LR3 around town. When I got home from work, it looked like the LR3 was sitting in the driveway at On-Road height (as opposed to Access Height, which is what we have been driving it at by default). That was puzzling, but I got into it and started it up...no dash lights on at all! The light on the Special Programs dial was illuminated (for the first time since I've owned the LR3). I ran the Special Programs dial through all the settings and each one lit up and the appropriate messages were displayed on the dash info screen! I tried the suspension raise/lower lever...and the suspension raised and lowered! I took it for a test drive and it stayed at On-Road height!

I don't know if the computer just needed to by cycled a couple of times to reboot it, or something. Or if it just needed time to think about whether it was really fixed or not...but it seems like all of my issues were coming from corrosion on more than just the one pin in that twenty-two pin connector. Probably only three or four pins, but I hard-wired them all, just to be certain. Anyways, I'm pretty excited to have all of that working again!!

I probably should have left well enough alone, but once the electrical was all working, I wanted the sunroof to work also (just because...). I think I mentioned earlier that the previous owner had had the sunroof siliconed shut to prevent the water leak that had caused the electrical issues in the first place. So, I carefully cut through the silicone that was gluing the sunroof shut...and accidentally destroyed the seal around the sunroof glass I should have been more patient and done a little more research first. (sigh) I did manage to find a local guy parting out an LR4 and he still had the sunroof glass, so I was able to buy that for $400, which was more than I wanted to spend for my impatience, but considerably less than what the dealer wanted for one (and I got a spare motor with it also!). Got the sunroof replaced and working properly. Then ordered new drain elbows and hose and replaced both front drain hoses and made sure they were draining properly (the left elbow was missing completely and the right elbow was broken and wouldn't stay in the drain hole). So now the sunroof works properly also.

Thanks for all the advice and support offered.