WOW droolyFace. I am shocked at the issues that have arose from removing and replacing some gaskets for your intake. I can only assume that you have a loose plug. It’s a good thing you changed your manifold gaskets too. Yours were terrible! OMG bad!


P-Bod, you’re correct too. If it was an exhaust leak you’d have a code specific to the bank… unless you have two leaks, one each bank. One code could be bank 1 in the vacuum system and the other could be bank 2 just above to up stream O2 sensor. This is not likely the situation. You could also read the O2 sensor readings and see if they differ greatly. Also I have a side question, do you have a wire up or photos of how you installed the Schrader valve to the fuel line?

One note you need to consider. As I did not realize this until I read on DiscoWeb. Reset the Engines adapted values. Simply clearing the CEL does not fully reset the values. So I learned.

I reset my adapted values last week. Drove over 200 miles and the CEL only returned at around 240 miles since the reset. It also went away next start up. I paid close attention to my LTFT the entire week. I am still getting high LTFT in park and neutral and at around 1500 RPM. These are definitely signs of a vacuum leak.
So I decided to smoke test again with my home made smoker. I realized I was testing with my smoker wrong the first couple times. I bought a part from Amazon which made a significant difference in the testing.
Part came in Sunday so I ran a smoke test again. Results were undeniable. Check out my video and attached images.

Turns out my EGR it’s leaking but my main leak is at bank 1 from the valve cover.
In an attempt to stop the leak at the EGR, I took some gasket sealer and put it inside, between the top and bottom of the EGR and all around it. I hope this gasket sealer does the job. EGR replacement part is not too cheap. My second video is hard to see the leak from the valve cover. But if you look close enough. In the center of the video, just below that first wire loom , you see the bubbling at the leak location.

 

Here’s the setup except I used about a 2-foot fuel hose where that little short piece is. I just looped it around so I didn’t kink or put any lines under strain.

Hope this makes sense.

 

So, bought a "cheap" smoke tester on Amazon (about $120).. hooked it up and saw smoke coming from the EGR valve. tightened the two bolts on top, and it seems to have fixed the Lean issue, but now getting a code on the EGR with insufficient flow.. guess I need to replace the valve? but damn, over $400 on AB (and elsewhere).. used on Bay for about half.

Is there a compatible unit available for like a Ford or Toyota?

Thanks.. this thread has been extremely helpful.

Jeff L.
2006 LR3 HSE

 

Before you spend a ton of money. Try backing the screws out completely. Take some basic gasket sealer. Open the top of the EGR, very carefully apply a small bit of the sealer around the EGR. Then then reinstall the bolts, do not gorilla tighten them either. I’m sure they only need about 7-10 ft lbs. Then seal the outside of the EGR. Let it all cure, clear the codes and see if that fixed it. This is what I’m doing. I don’t want to waste money on a used one. I’d rather buy a new EGR with new gaskets rather than deal with a used one that could be faulty sooner than later.

So far, since I’ve done this to my EGR. I’ve driven over 100 miles. My bank 2 lean codes are gone (knock on wood!). I still have lean on bank 1 occasionally. The CEL appears only after sitting in park with the engine idling for 20 min or more.


P-Bod. Thanks for the photo! That is so easy looking. I’m tempted to do the same. Well done sir!

 

If any of you guys decide you do need another (used) EGR, I've got one in good, working condition that I pulled from my 08 LR3 4.4L about a year ago.
I loaded up the parts cannon a bit when I found a new oem Denso EGR on closeout - but in the end, my problem turned out to be a (defective out of the box) oem pcv valve. My original EGR was actually just fine.

I've been meaning to list it on ebay, but I'd rather it go to someone here, if anybody here wants a used one with a known history. Just message me if you do.
And thanks for keeping this epic lean codes thread going guys!

 

Thanks coldwater and Tracyc,. I've done the sealant on the EGR valve, and so far so good.. don't want to jinx it, and finger's crossed.. Tracyc, if it's OK, let me give a few days and see how it goes.. very well might want your EGR Valve.

disco203

 

Sure thing Disco, hopefully you won't need it.

 

‘aight! I’m awake after a long week of nights and got my smoke machine from Amazon sooner than expected.

Tested it today and immediately found the area of the leak.

GOOD NEWS: general location found and it does not seem to be the stripped out screws!

MEDIOCRE NEWS: not 100% pinpointed. Probably about 95%

BAD NEWS: gotta yank the entire manifold again. Maybe?

When I get to my computer I’ll see about uploading the videos I took today.

The leak is at the back (of course) right side at the far last intake port. Does not seem to be a leak from the stripped screw In the same spot as it looks to be lower from the lower gasket so good news there.

Im oscillating between throwing a lot of gasket sealer around the area and letting it cure overnight in the hope I can avoid pulling it all out. I don’t t want to buy another set of lower gaskets.

Other thing I noticed today which I will need to investigate further is that it looks like the lower gasket near the leak got bent going back in during install and may be curled up near an injector. Finding that was dumb luck as I was slipping backward off my tenuous perch while balancing on the rim of the front.

I can’t seem to work out how that would happen though so I’ll grab some pics and do another smoke test.

I’m open to ideas about gasket sealer all around vs. reusing the new installed gaskets (under 20 miles on them) assuming they are not ripped or otherwise obviously damaged.

Whatcha think?

 

Well I figured it out. This’ll do it!

How this happened I have no idea. Going to try and recover it since new gaskets are a week out.

 

Well, at least you found it!

When installing gaskets. I will use zip ties through a few bolt holes to temporarily hold it in place during reinstall. After setting a few bolts finger tight, just cut the zip ties and keep moving.

Works for trans pans and oil pans too.