Rear heat LR3
#11
Sorry to rehash an old post, but I recently flushed my heater core on my LR3, which sorted the lack of heat on the drivers side so I am once again toasty. I noticed that the rear is lacking heat. I can't seem to find much information on if it's even possible to flush the system for the rear and sort this out. Anyone have any insight to share so my kiddies aren't chauffeured around as ice cubes. Thanks!
#12
Sorry to rehash an old post, but I recently flushed my heater core on my LR3, which sorted the lack of heat on the drivers side so I am once again toasty. I noticed that the rear is lacking heat. I can't seem to find much information on if it's even possible to flush the system for the rear and sort this out. Anyone have any insight to share so my kiddies aren't chauffeured around as ice cubes. Thanks!
#14
Yes, I'm the LR3 owner (aka mechanic) who posted those pics and brief description of Rear Heater Core flush.
Feel free to ask me any additional questions. Sidenote, I still have the driver side rear inside panel removed, if we need to discuss the actual rear HVAC system in more detail.
When you connect your 2 flush tubes to the 2 rear coolant lines (in/out), here's a couple of tips -
1. You will need 5/8" inside diameter hose, to connect to the 2 rear coolant pipes.
2. The 2 rear coolant pipes are aluminium. Very soft. Very easy to distort, bend, damage, squash, when you are removing the short rubber connection hoses from them, in order to attach your 2 flush hoses. HIGHLY recommend using a pair of 'hose' pliers (circular at end), and very gently, patiently, carefully turn and move backwards and forward, to break the seal. I would assume at this point that your aluminium pipes are basically welded to your rubber pieces, caused by time and dirt.
3. Various metal clamps on underside of vehicle, where the 2 rear coolant pipes tuck in under the edge of the body. These will be rusted, and will break. Use a metal clamp and some sheet metal screws to make new ones. You don't want those coolant pipes flopping around.
I highly recommend that 18v Ryobi transfer pump. It wasn't that much more expensive than a plug in one. Obvious choice for me, since most of my power tools are Ryobi.
I did NOT also use a combo compressed air / water tool to power flush the system - did not want to accidentally cause any leaks by using too much pressure.
Slow and steady wins the race - plenty of clean water changes, plenty of time, and a decent in-line filter to catch the very fine bits of dirt.
P.s. I will send you $1 if your dirt was worse than mine.
Cheers, Simon
Feel free to ask me any additional questions. Sidenote, I still have the driver side rear inside panel removed, if we need to discuss the actual rear HVAC system in more detail.
When you connect your 2 flush tubes to the 2 rear coolant lines (in/out), here's a couple of tips -
1. You will need 5/8" inside diameter hose, to connect to the 2 rear coolant pipes.
2. The 2 rear coolant pipes are aluminium. Very soft. Very easy to distort, bend, damage, squash, when you are removing the short rubber connection hoses from them, in order to attach your 2 flush hoses. HIGHLY recommend using a pair of 'hose' pliers (circular at end), and very gently, patiently, carefully turn and move backwards and forward, to break the seal. I would assume at this point that your aluminium pipes are basically welded to your rubber pieces, caused by time and dirt.
3. Various metal clamps on underside of vehicle, where the 2 rear coolant pipes tuck in under the edge of the body. These will be rusted, and will break. Use a metal clamp and some sheet metal screws to make new ones. You don't want those coolant pipes flopping around.
I highly recommend that 18v Ryobi transfer pump. It wasn't that much more expensive than a plug in one. Obvious choice for me, since most of my power tools are Ryobi.
I did NOT also use a combo compressed air / water tool to power flush the system - did not want to accidentally cause any leaks by using too much pressure.
Slow and steady wins the race - plenty of clean water changes, plenty of time, and a decent in-line filter to catch the very fine bits of dirt.
P.s. I will send you $1 if your dirt was worse than mine.
Cheers, Simon
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tracyc (02-17-2024)
#15
Never heard of a rear core getting blocked up - unless maybe some idiot used tons of stop leak? Crawl under the vehicle on the passenger side. Make note of a pair of coolant hose junction in typical coolant hose not much larger than a garden hose. This is a cooling between two metal pipes that run to the rear core. You will dump coolant, but you can open them up there and run a garden hose to flush the rear core pretty easily.
Also the two forward center vents at the console (knee level for rear passengers) are controlled from the front, not rear. Which is slightly odd since they obviously feed straight back. But keep in mind rear HVAC was an option, so with none there would have to be something from the front going to the rear passengers.
Also the two forward center vents at the console (knee level for rear passengers) are controlled from the front, not rear. Which is slightly odd since they obviously feed straight back. But keep in mind rear HVAC was an option, so with none there would have to be something from the front going to the rear passengers.
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