Hello everyone!

So my friend recently turned up with an LR3 (2007, SE) that has many "challenges" and dumped it at my house. My plan is to solve as many of it's challenges as possible. I used my pretty basic OBD 2 scanner and this is what I got:

Module1
Stored
P0332
U0102
P0051
P0151
P0036
P0106
P0480
P0622
P0031
U0126
P0579
P0131
P0409
P0504
P2105
P0576
P0513

Pending
U0102
P0051
P0151
P0036
P0106
P0622
P0031
U0126
P0131
P0504
P0576

Module 2
None


Apart from those, some other things:

AC doesn't work but I guess this is something that the guys over here can easily fix with supervision.
Some rickety sounds coming from under the truck when it goes over bumps.
Radio seems to be stuck on Power Saver Mode even when the engine is running.
On starting, you have to rev it for a few seconds immediately or it shuts off.
Dashboard dislay is a little tired, can barely read the many complaints it has. Also, the fule gauge on shuttles between Full and Half.

So what I'm looking for is some initial thoughts about how this is looking and where you would recommend I begin with trying to repair it and get it running nicely again. I'm going to spend some time reading about the codes (I recognise some of them already from my other cars) but again just interest in hearing the first thing an expert would think when presented with something like this.

Throwing it away is not an option

 

Wow.
Well, I'd start with a new battery and test the alternator.

 

First thing is to make sure it's getting enough juice. Test the battery. Then, get yourself a better code reader, such as an IIDTool from GAP Diagnostics. For the sounds underneath check the control arm bushings, bearings, tie rod ends and sway-bar bushings.

Check the floorboards for dampness. Water ingress tends to pool there and corrode the wire bundles that run under the carpet. You'll want to dry that out and revive/protect any connections there.

That should take you a week...check back after that!

 

I think we'll start with checking the control arm bushings, bearings, tie rod ends, etc. Then we'll move on to battery/alternator.

Getting a higher quality scanner will be tricky for now because I'm in Nigeria. Maybe what I'll do is find someone who charges for a diagnosis (they usually have the better code readers) and have them do a scan in a week or two. Until then, I'll keep you all posted!

 

Agree on suspension work. Get a good battery, clear codes and see what comes back up. How’s the gas over there?
Many codes could be just carry overs from low voltage or temporary conditions...IIDTOOL is worth the money and if you get Bluetooth version, it will not require a computer.

 

With so many faults stored and the fact that the gauge is oscillating, it appears that there is a problem with the alternator. This in turn will, more than likely, have damaged the battery, if it wasn't already overdue a change.

Have the chargeing system tested and budget for a new alternator and battery, then clear the faults and recheck for any that reappear. It's likely that once the charging system and battery are sorted all the electrical problems will be sorted, including the radio.

The knocks and bangs, are almost definitely, due to worn bushes. Get the car off the ground (position stands under her) and check all the bushes for excessive movement. I'd just lift one side and check upper and lower arms on both front and rear and if there are signs of wear in bushes I'd get new arms all round. Don't forget to check the drop links from the roll bars and the roll bar bushes.

For the dying engine check MAF and the throttle body. Remove the intake ducts between the air filter (which should be clean) and throttle body. Oprerate the throttle vavle by hand and look for a build-up of carbon were the valve contacts the body. If there are deposits get some carb cleaner and remove it. Check online for how to clean the MAF and clean it. There are other items to check, but start here.

 

Great post. Lots of content... no comment