Here's what I found in the shop manual. When it says connect to T4, that means the very high dollar Rover computer at the dealer, also called the test book. Now you can download your very own copy of the shop manual, it takes about 8 hours, because the company that has it on for free wants you to buy a higher priced high speed membership. Just start it before you go to bed. Or download from Rover on their pay for use site.

Now, some would imply from your comments that only dealer trained and supported mechaincs can solve Rover problems. Were that true, this forum would be a whole lot smaller. To be fair, we have a number of members who are current techs at LR, or at shops working on LR, or previously worked there. So you do get the dealer info, and for free. Some guys on here are just hobbyists, and in various stages of DIY. Others have spent thousands of their own paycheck chasing down a problem and give you their "hard earned" advice. Again, for free. And some just tinker with their Rover under the shade tree (guilty as charged).

As far as the number of opinions offered, that will vary with work load, vacations, Rover rescue and repair, and starting this Friday, your favorite Olympic sport.

So here is the link for a free manual download. Download PDF Land Rover Discovery 3 - LR3 - Workshop Manual | PDFTown.com

And Rover will also sell you a subscription based access where you can download lots. If you have these beasts, having douments on a USB drive in the glove box could come in handy.

And here are the pages fom the shop manual that tell you what the various info displays mean.

Rover figures if you spent $50,000+ on a vehicle, you won't go anywhere but the dealer to have it massaged. When you only spend $1700 like I did, you can't even afford for the dealer to look at the dipstick. Fiscal reality forces many Rover owners into enternal enslavement as the home mechanic. Vocabulary soon forces selection of a shade tree far from the house. I envy they guys with detached garages.....

BTW - over 100 views of this thread, and only two guys stopped and offered to help.

 

It looks like these suggestions were not mentioned yet, so I will throw them in. Verify that your brake lights are working. Also, verify that your brake switch (under the brake pedal) is not toasted. Both of those issues have been known to display faults in the instrument panel like you describe.

Earlier this year my LR3 wasn't starting and it ended up being a bad starter. Have you also tried moving the gear selector out of and back into park to verify that it is not stuck in some halfway position? I know that you swapped batteries with another LR3. Did you check the voltage? The battery needs to be close to 13 volts in order for the engine to start. I also read on another forum that you should check fuse 30 in the compartment next to the battery. Apparently that fuse is for the transmission ECU.

Hope you are able to get things sorted out without going to the dealer.

 

bbyer has educated my about brake light syndrome, so it's worthwhile to get a new switch and new bulbs. They will give me peace of mind and will eliminate a possible cause for the glitch.

Your comment about voltage may be onto something. Donor volts were 12.48 and the battery that got replaced was 12.19. Given that the newer battery had higher voltage, it's strange that the higher volt battery would be a cause factor.

I think I'll pull the battery out of the dead LR and have it load tested. That might tell a different story. Thanks for the tips.

P.S. Where's the best source for LR parts like switches and bulbs? AB?

 

ummmm - would expect battery, at idle, with nothing else running but engine, to make 13.8 - 14.4 volts. If battery is below 13.2 with truck running then it really is not getting much of a charge. Bet if you turn on the headlights that 12.48 drops like a stone.

 

Just like a update on here. Sorry not everyone has the $$ to have a LR3 yet. But one day I will and I will appreciate all the information all ready out there on the forums!

 

I had batteries tested and found two to be borderline. Bought two new ones (Battery Plus for $136 less $10 rebate) and installed.

No change on the '06. It still throws every code under the sun and will not turn over, nor even make a noise like the solenoid is clicking. It sits DOA in the driveway until a wrench can come look at it.

The '07 continues with the "Normal height only" message. I can get the dash light off by turning off the motor, then switch to #2 and cycle the lift lever until it reads normal again. Turn on the engine and the light/message comes on.

This started after I towed the motorcycle trailer with the truck. Anybody have a clue about a diagnosis, or is that a sign of a failing compressor?

 

Let me just say that if you own 2 lr3s you may want to consider
finding a diagnostic scanner that supports all lr3 systems.
Even if you spend 1500 + you could save big money in the long run if you've got technical skills..
A diagnosis and repair can cost upwards of 1500.00 at a dealer for either of your issues..

Ok, Lets start with the 06 that you just put the battery in.
Take the battery back out, behind the battery there is a plastic
cover with 2 wire looms going into it. Remove the cover. Make sure
you release the tabs on each side of the cover or you could break the
latches on the ebox. remove the Transfer box ecu and check the
connectors for corrosion. If the pins are corroded you'll need to replace
the Tbox ECU, and clean or replace electrical connectors as necessary.

Next your 07 EAS, A couple of things you can look for without a scanner
If you have a Nav screen, You can access the off road info and look at your
sensor heights in real time they should all be register the same height at
all 4 corners. When you first start the truck The compressor should cycle.
If it cycles on and shuts off it's possible you either have a leak or the
compressor drier and valving in the compressor head is clogged up.
listen for air leaks, spray the eas reservoir with soapy water and look
for leaks. (all this stuff is right beneath the l/f and l/r door)

Cheers