Hi there, LR3 people! I got my wife an LR3 and she loves it. But we are having a little issue and I'd like to draw on the collective knowledge here for some advice.

Salients: 2008 LR3 with 4.4 engine, 98k, PO kept for weekend driving. Service done at LR Dallas. We have put about 200 miles on it in the last few weeks. Aside from changing oil and air filter, and re connecting the windshield wiper hose to the reservoir, zero maintenance by us. Outside temp about 76 degrees. Typical east Texas humidity. I usually drive a diesel so I am a pokey driver--no hot rodding.

Problem: wife told me it was losing power and she was afraid to drive across an intersection. I drove it and it had no problems, so I thought she might have been "mistaken," but it happened to me on the way to Sam's Wholesale to get some cat food and it was very unmistakable. Starting from a stop, the engine noticeably bogged and even slowed despite putting the pedal into it; then it took off with a surge of power. Throughout the gears (up to about 60mph) I felt a hesitation. Next intersection, same issue.

The temporary fix: I pulled into a gas station to consider my options and filled it up (it had a quarter tank when I stopped) and the engine ran smoothly and powerful the rest of the way home. Total stop time was about 5 minutes. It reminded me of the time my wife arrived home, turned off the truck, ran inside and told me to drive it because it was having the problem. I jumped in and it had no problems.

No engine light. No pending codes. I did not have realtime temperature monitoring but the idiot guage never moved.

In my 19th year of Disco II ownership, I immediately thought "head gaskets!" Taking a five minute stop for gas and then having no problems alleviated head gaskets fears. My next thought was: it is something electronic or under pressure. So, MAF, fuel pump, or clogged valve/cannister somewhere.

The bogging of the engine felt like random misfires in my Disco, but I never got an service engine light. I know this is a different and better engine.

I *almost* wish I had some codes to look at, but I don't. Can't have wife driving it around that way so I am open to suggestions. Are there any or should I just start throwing parts at it (starting with MAF)? Since the problem is extremely transient I am going to have a hard time knowing whether a certain part has made a difference.

Best,


Charlie V

 

Maybe its the fuel pump based on filling up the tank fixed it.
Do you have the GAP IID tool for codes?

 

Abran,

Glad to hear from you.
​​​​​
I do. I hooked it up when I got home.

It had a quarter tank, but the fuel pump did occur to me. Going the other way, when this happened before (wife turned off truck, ran in, and I immediately started up) there was no change in the fuel level.

Is there something I should do with the GAP tool?

Best,


Charlie V

 

 

Okay, that's two fuel pump votes.

I'll take it tomorrow and see how it does on the full tank. If no problems, I can't go wrong with a new pump... we are in this truck for the long haul, anyway and a failed fuel pump is not a fun thing.

EDIT: So I googled new pumps and they are 7-800. So, a used one for sure, unless I'm sure it is the pump. Ever more certainty is required since I also read the excellent post on changing the pump. But I gathered a bit more data from my wife.. And this is a direct quote, "When I went to the zoo I ran it down to [the point when] the fuel light came on and it didn't do it."

So, my wife went to the zoo.

And it didn't stumble then, though she DID take it to a very low fuel level.

I'm going to keep the GAP tool in the console and pop it in of this happens again. Any suggestions what to look for?

 

 

Oh man, I hope thats a joke! That thing was like buying gold bullion!!!

I really bought it for the keys. Worked good... though I heard you on those keys being good for about a year. Eek.

 

I try to covers basics before going to extremes. This it he first car I drove where I can not run the engine with the oil filler cap open. Bogs down bad. So with that said, the PCV valve can cause havoc when it fails open. Very easy to replace and not terribly expensive. And its something that fails on enough vehicles that it simply should be replaced anyway. The MAF is easy to remove and clean, I would try cleaning first. Replacement OEM units are a little pricey, but you can save with a direct replacement Denso part. Part 22204-22010 is the item. I bought mine for $25 and its been working great for nearly a year. With that said, a bad MAF will usually cause a CE light.