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Water pump leaking?

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Old Oct 17, 2017 | 11:38 PM
  #1  
ljdiscovery's Avatar
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Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: La Jolla, California
Default Water pump leaking?

I have noticed that my coolant level has been dropping a bit. I have also smelled tail tail scent of coolant. I got under the truck on Saturday and found traces of coolant down the front of the engine and down across the oil cooler. I cleaned it off and drove about 50 miles over the last few days. Got under the truck again tonight and noticed a small drop of coolant apparently coming from the water pump. Almost looks like it is coming from the water pump gasket. I hate to change out the water pump if it is just the gasket. Thoughts? Photo attached shows a small drip of coolant under below the water pump. Thanks. Phil

2005 LR3 125k miles
2006 Range Rover Sport 30k miles
 
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Old Oct 18, 2017 | 12:00 AM
  #2  
abran's Avatar
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Joined: Aug 2013
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From: Huntington Beach CA
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Change the water pump.

no sense in doing the work for the gasket unless you change the pump, not expensive.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2017 | 06:26 PM
  #3  
bbyer's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Edmonton Alberta Canada
Default Water pump - be happy

Sounds like the water pump shaft seal to me, but regardless, be happy, just change out the water pump.

Compared to other potential problems, that is good news.

The petrol 4.4 V8 does not tolerate any kind of cooling system problem so you might want to use this opportunity to change out the coolant as well as the plastic thermostat housing assembly and the bleeder tee. The bleeder tee is an easy fix and has a history of failure - do that regardless.

The part numbers form part of the jpg titles.
 
Attached Thumbnails Water pump leaking?-hose-assembly-bleeder-lr006158-bleeder-valve-part-number-lr027661.jpg   Water pump leaking?-thermostat-housing-complete-lr005631.jpg  
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Old May 10, 2019 | 05:28 PM
  #4  
mtaylo32's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2018
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From: Winchester, KY
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Hey all, digging up an old thread here... Recently took in my truck for some warranty work at the dealership (was supposed to be covered... turned out they won't cover anything. Money well spent! ) and they found an engine coolant leak and recommended swapping the water pump. I have an '08 LR3 with 145,000 miles 4.4L. I'm contemplating just doing the work myself since the part is so cheap. Does anyone have any access to the steps to knock the water pump replacement out, tools needed, difficulty, etc.? From what I've seen it looks like the fans and belts will have to be removed in order to access the water pump. I have to admit I am a little intimidated to take the belts off, but I'm sure it's an easier process than I imagine. I have never flushed coolant or any engine fluids before, can anyone shed any light on how difficult of a process that is? I've recently started working on these vehicles and any vehicle in general and would really love to build the knowledge to continue to do so. The thermostat housing has recently been replaced too and won't need to swap that. Thanks all!
 
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Old May 10, 2019 | 08:06 PM
  #5  
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From: Green Bay, WI
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When I looked into it, it was far easier than I expected. I figured more would have to come out than does. Its very straightforward. The AC Delco pump is very inexpensive and several people have installed it and like it. Otherwise I would probably go OEM. Consider new belt(s) as long as you are in there, especially if they have never been replaced.


Flushing, again Google can help. We have very "soft" water where I live so I use a garden hose and just flush it that way. Then fill it, warm it up, dump it, etc. Just dont dump really cold water into a hot engine - not that you should drain a hot engine in the first place. If you feel up for it, before removing the pump add some citric acid. Just dont let it sit too long. I bought my powder on eBay. You have to mix it first. I have not done this procedure yet though, but I want to be proactive with the heater cores that clog on these trucks. Then install an inline coolant filter.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...tric_Acid_Flus
 
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Old May 12, 2019 | 11:58 AM
  #6  
mtaylo32's Avatar
Rock Crawling
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 357
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From: Winchester, KY
Default

Originally Posted by DakotaTravler
When I looked into it, it was far easier than I expected. I figured more would have to come out than does. Its very straightforward. The AC Delco pump is very inexpensive and several people have installed it and like it. Otherwise I would probably go OEM. Consider new belt(s) as long as you are in there, especially if they have never been replaced.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MyHeWj3Jrd4

Flushing, again Google can help. We have very "soft" water where I live so I use a garden hose and just flush it that way. Then fill it, warm it up, dump it, etc. Just dont dump really cold water into a hot engine - not that you should drain a hot engine in the first place. If you feel up for it, before removing the pump add some citric acid. Just dont let it sit too long. I bought my powder on eBay. You have to mix it first. I have not done this procedure yet though, but I want to be proactive with the heater cores that clog on these trucks. Then install an inline coolant filter.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...tric_Acid_Flus

Thanks Dakota, much appreciated! I ordered the AC Delco from amazon and should get here tomorrow. My belts have recently been replaced, but do plan on replacing the bleeder-T as well. What coolant did you roll with upon refill? I have read either the original LR coolant or Valvoline Zerex Dex-Cool. Do you know if that’s accurate?
 
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Old May 12, 2019 | 04:48 PM
  #7  
DakotaTravler's Avatar
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From: Green Bay, WI
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Just make sure its Dex-Cool. I did more reading about coolants than what I wanted when looking. All my other vehicles got Zerez G-05 and that was the plan for the Rover. But it really needs to be Dexcool - which is a generic standard for a coolant type. So you are right in going with Zerex Dexcool which is both inexpensive and easy to find. The other option is Halvoline Extended Life which is about as close to factory as you can get. For some reason, its not easy to find locally. Then again compared to others, Zerex is not either.



 
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