Daily intermittent rhythmic engine shudder
Quick update. In tank fuel pump and filter install went well and may have solved the problem (knock on wood). I finished the work on Saturday and did a short drive to the gas station on Sunday. LTFTs were high (~10%), but STFTs we low (~ -4.5%). O2 sensors read well. However, coolant temp sensor #2 read 11C while #1 read 47C.
I am attributing the mismatched coolant readings to not being warmed up. I am reasonably sure that the #2 coolant sensor would heat up once the thermostat opens.
Anyway. Monday's drive to work showed a little bogging when coming to red lights, but, driving home, it was not present. Likewise, on this morning's drive, there was no idle bogging.
I cannot rule out environmental factors though. It's been warmer the last few days... I'm going to keep an eye on it this week and report back.
I am attributing the mismatched coolant readings to not being warmed up. I am reasonably sure that the #2 coolant sensor would heat up once the thermostat opens.
Anyway. Monday's drive to work showed a little bogging when coming to red lights, but, driving home, it was not present. Likewise, on this morning's drive, there was no idle bogging.
I cannot rule out environmental factors though. It's been warmer the last few days... I'm going to keep an eye on it this week and report back.
I've an update as well, though this may well be a red herring, however after over a week of monitoring variables, I've noticed the rhythmic idle drop appears to be consistently induced by removing and replacing the gas cap and takes about 20 minutes to right itself. It does not however have any impact on the other random idle drops etc. And again on some drives I can load it up and idle stays high and smooth and other times idle just keeps dropping and shuddering. Also noticed and perhaps this is normal but with just a quarter tank of fuel, the gas cap is very wet with gasoline and that strange rumbling/chuffing noise from the filler tube.
the noise could be attributed to the fuel pump. It sits very close the the filler hose. It may have become loose from its mount (it's a twist-lock set up).
the rubber gasket of the gas cap does degrade over time. I would purchase a new one and see if that fixes it; before undertaking a fuel tank drop.
anything thing I noticed is that if I allow start stop to execute, it bogs a little at restart. Correlating this, when i turn it off, it bogs as a time when the engine would normally shut off--could be me making a connection where none exists.
another thought: there is a TSB that I intend to execute whereby the TCM software is updated to take into account idle. It is characterized by harsh engagement of the transmission when shifting from park to drive. I notice this if I try to immediately shift into drive after starting (and the idle is still high). If I wait for the idle to drop (seemingly after the cats are warmed up from the increased idle) it shifts just fine.
maybe the software is cause an idle bog when stopped st a traffic light.
again, I still need to keep monitoring it. I think by this weekend I should be able to confirm the repair.
I've an update as well, though this may well be a red herring, however after over a week of monitoring variables, I've noticed the rhythmic idle drop appears to be consistently induced by removing and replacing the gas cap and takes about 20 minutes to right itself. It does not however have any impact on the other random idle drops etc. And again on some drives I can load it up and idle stays high and smooth and other times idle just keeps dropping and shuddering. Also noticed and perhaps this is normal but with just a quarter tank of fuel, the gas cap is very wet with gasoline and that strange rumbling/chuffing noise from the filler tube.
If the purge valve is not sealing, removing the gas cap would perhaps allow air into the system at the throttle body resembling a major vacuum leak and causing the engine surge.
You could pull the purge line off the throttle body (plug the throttle body connection) and see if the gurgling goes away and if it prevents the surging that starts when you remove the gas cap.
Ok, well here is where I am. The filler neck is definitely making a LOUD gurgling, rumbling, hissing, chuffing noise at 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 tank, not certain with a full tank. It makes the noise whether the cap is on or off and the cap seal appears it be in perfect condition. It makes this noise if the idle is rough or smooth. After adding 5 gallons of gas, the noise emanating from the filler went away BUT the 100 RPM rhythmic idle drop returned.
And the rigid vacuum line on the left side still makes the intermittent ticking noise.
I agree what I am experiencing feels like a vacuum leak.
I have not tried removing the small vacuum line next to the part load breather from the top of the throttle body yet.
Any other suggestions for testing/eliminating the purge valves variable, etc?
EDIT: Disconnected the purge line and started the car. no issues, no ticking for a few minutes, then from the left side (drivers) I hear a rumbling noise. Checked the filler neck and confirmed the noises matched. What this means, I have no idea...outside of my expertise.
And the rigid vacuum line on the left side still makes the intermittent ticking noise.
I agree what I am experiencing feels like a vacuum leak.
I have not tried removing the small vacuum line next to the part load breather from the top of the throttle body yet.
Any other suggestions for testing/eliminating the purge valves variable, etc?
EDIT: Disconnected the purge line and started the car. no issues, no ticking for a few minutes, then from the left side (drivers) I hear a rumbling noise. Checked the filler neck and confirmed the noises matched. What this means, I have no idea...outside of my expertise.
Last edited by jahummer; Mar 10, 2021 at 03:03 PM.
The noise reduction makes sense if it's the pump. The pump attaches to the bottom of the tank. If adding gas reduces the sound, the gasoline is covering the pump and thereby dampening it's vibrations.
does your DMTL still run after shutting off the vehicle?
smoke test is the best way to tell. There are only four main gateways to engine vacuum: 2 at the throttle body, and the MAP sensor and vacuum line at the back of the supercharger. There is also the brake booster line and the crankcase lines...
can you hear the noise through the wheel well? This would indicate an exhaust leak. That purge line comes from the evap canister, not the tank.
does your DMTL still run after shutting off the vehicle?
smoke test is the best way to tell. There are only four main gateways to engine vacuum: 2 at the throttle body, and the MAP sensor and vacuum line at the back of the supercharger. There is also the brake booster line and the crankcase lines...
can you hear the noise through the wheel well? This would indicate an exhaust leak. That purge line comes from the evap canister, not the tank.
With half a tank of gas, is the pump still not submerged?
How can I tell if the DMTL is running?
The brake booster line is not leaking, the throttle body lines are not leaking at the throttle body, the purge valve noise is on the top side of the engine, not underneath or near the catalytics.
EDIT: Also it still makes the noise with a full tank of gas.
How can I tell if the DMTL is running?
The brake booster line is not leaking, the throttle body lines are not leaking at the throttle body, the purge valve noise is on the top side of the engine, not underneath or near the catalytics.
EDIT: Also it still makes the noise with a full tank of gas.
Last edited by jahummer; Mar 10, 2021 at 04:21 PM.
Did disconnecting the purge line (and plugging the connection hole at the throttle body) eliminate the idle issue (or make any difference in any symptom - tank noise, etc.)? Or did it not make any difference? Where is the rumbling from the driver’s side heard? Drivers side rear or drivers side of the engine compartment?
Last edited by jlglr4; Mar 10, 2021 at 05:12 PM.
With half a tank of gas, is the pump still not submerged?
How can I tell if the DMTL is running?
The brake booster line is not leaking, the throttle body lines are not leaking at the throttle body, the purge valve noise is on the top side of the engine, not underneath or near the catalytics.
EDIT: Also it still makes the noise with a full tank of gas.
How can I tell if the DMTL is running?
The brake booster line is not leaking, the throttle body lines are not leaking at the throttle body, the purge valve noise is on the top side of the engine, not underneath or near the catalytics.
EDIT: Also it still makes the noise with a full tank of gas.
Start the truck and put it in off road height. Start the vehicle and climb underneath. Start listening to see if you can narrow the sound down. Also use an automotive stethoscope or long handled screwdriver up to your ear to find vibration.
The rumbling, gurgling, hissing, chuffing is coming from the filler neck and is definitely related in some way to the matched rhythm of the ticking and rumbling on the left side of the engine (where the purge vacuum lines are located). When I disconnect the vacuum line, I see brown soot but even plugging the hole with the engine running has no impact on the low idle. Also with the vacuum line disconnected, the purge ticking is still there however the filler neck noises cease. As soon as the line is reconnected, the filler noises return. I do not hear any noise from the gas tank or neck when the engine is turned off so I suspect no DMTL.


