Posted this in the tire size sticky, but figured worth its own post as I've read a bunch of questions re: use of spacers.. but no real follow ups.

Short of story - moved up from 32" to 33" (Nitto Recon Grappler 275-60-20). Had it in mind based on posts I've seen that I needed 30mm spacers to make it work. Very wrong. Learning lesson in geometry. Spacers do exactly opposite of what intention is when installing larger tires, and honestly a bit shocked it hasn't been surfaced more frequently in the tire threads given all the "should I use spacers" or "what spacers should i use" questions. Anyone going the larger tire route understands the issues of the inside of the front tires rubbing the frame horns and lower wheel well area when at full turn. Unfortunately, when at full turn, spacers have the effect of moving the tires even closer to the wheel well/mud flap and frame horns. With 33"s, the spacers made the truck non-usable -- when turning the rubbing was so bad it pushed the body panels out, and even ripped up the insulation around whatever fluid pipe is in the passenger side well.

Note on suspension lift -- I do have johnson rods installed, but for whatever reason was still not getting enough lift. Used GAPIID tool to overide and set lift at maximum, which I'd say works well and looks great with these tires. I think the setting in GAP is +46 front, +30 rear (rear lift set automatically when you set the front at max). The other outcome here - the truck is always now at max lift. If you press the lift button into extended mode, the truck will actually lower. Fortunately the 'access height' still lowers the truck a few inches to get into parking garages.. and my own garage.

Sad part of my story -- before realizing how the laws of geometry work, I went full-bore into slicing and dicing my wheel well apart. Pic below.. Even after doing this however, really didn't fully solve issue - still massive rubbing of frame horn, and tire still came unacceptably into contact with the fluid pipe and body panel.

Happy part of story -- in a stroke of "duh" realized the spacers were working against me, pulled them out and completely solved the body panel/wheel well rubbing issue. Turns out I never needed to cut anything ($160 later and new wheel well inserts are on order). The tires still do a fair amount of rubbing on frame horns when at close to full turn - not a huge issue.. wish it wasn't there, but seems like that's the price of 33"s. Can also safely say - 33" is the biggest tire going on these trucks without permanent mods. Truck drives as awesome as ever and no noticeable difference at highway speeds. I will also add - I would think the 33"s make true offroading a bit sketchy.. have to imagine if go over any slight obstacle when turning, the suspension articulation is going to cause some pretty massive rubbing on the frame.. So I think the best answer here is to just avoid turns lol.

 

The ill effects of spacers are mentioned much more in the LR3 forum. Sucks you found out the hard way. For calibration it really is best to remove the rods, do a calibration, then reinstall the rods. You can go into extended mode via the heigh switch? That is something the LR3 can not. Only off-road. Extended is automatic when hung up and super extended is initiated by the driver only when already in extended.

 

Thanks for tip on LR3 forum and calibration..! Any quick tips or links on how go perform calibration? One of the other downsides of current situation, will get suspension fault while driving every so often. Doesn’t seem to actually do anything when the fault happens, but would be nice for it to not happen all the same.

 

Remove rods, do a guided calibration to stock height or go up a half-inch or so. Not too much, because rods. Once you have done the calibration (and you may have to do it a couple times to really dial it all in, check and recheck), then install the rods for the additional lift. I think you may find things back to normal then. You will always have rubbing issue though unless you install strut spacers because lift does not change geometry. And keep I mind going too high above stock will increase CV axel wear. I myself did a 1.5" lift over stock just using GAP, no rods and no spacers. But I also run 32.1" tires, not 33s so I have no rubbing issues anyway.

 

Thanks for reply above Dakota. I did a quick search on calibration with the IID tool, seems straightforward enough. Only issue - I don't have the stock rods any longer, tossed them when I put in the johnson rods. Any tips or workarounds there? Seems like if I want to do calibration and need stock rods, I need to buy 4 complete new sensors.

Understood on the strut spacer, makes sense. I did play around with the lift a bit and lowered it without much change in rubbing, just to reduce that CV angle.. hoping for best there.

Thanks again