Thanks! I'll keep the OEM coil since I don't need to spend more and the points you make are good, if ever the MSD drops dead. I'll also get the 8910.

New question - I just watched a video about your kick-down cable on your transmission. I mention this since my truck has been having a harder time shifting out of first gear when I start it up for the first time in the morning. However, when it does finally shift, it works fine and I can leave the truck all day when the engine gets cold again, and it still shifts fine. Only problem experienced when it's started first time in a day. Could this be a cable-related issue?

Thanks,

Bob

 

unless things have changed, the MSD does not have vacuum advance so your around town mileage will suffer. I used to run that on my 95 disco. Had a 6T controller fail on the side of the road. Replaced it with an HEI module on a heat sink and didn't notice any performance change losing the multi spark part of it. Went back to the lucas distributor, but the supply of crap rotors that arc through the material is a big problem with those. Switched to a mallory and it ran fine for a year or so then started having an occasional misfire. I don't know what it was, maybe just a cap or rotor, but I'd had it with the lack of reliability of non oem toleranced equipment so I milled down the first bolt hole on the intake manifold and slapped a 76 buick 350 HEI distributor in there. It is by far the most trouble free ignition I've ever run on the rover. It's not a direct bolt in, you do have to hack up the power steering pump bracket to get the body to clear (or switch to a different pump and bracket, what I did) and mill the pedestal for the manifold bolt to .625" and use a button head allen bolt (Buick had to do the same from the factory when they switched to HEI on those engines) The ecu tach signal hooks right up to the - terminal on it, no adapter box needed.

I wouldn't do MSD. It takes up too much room and everyone I know that runs one has had module failures, and the lack of vacuum advance. Lucas has its problems with poor quality replacement parts, but I think anything else would be a better option than MSD.

 

Hi all,

OK, I got my truck back and it's running like a little top...for now. However, I have been doing a lot of thinking and reading/watching a number of posts on the use of both the MSD 6A series system along with an HEI distributor. The whole purpose of getting rid of the current distributor is to remove a problem I have had twice now, which is arcing from the dist. rotor. And removing the coil, which needed to be replace last time the truck was in the shop will eliminate that part.

So, I have purchased the MSD 6201 with an 8910 tach adapter, along with a Davis Unified Ignition 96920RD HEI distributor made for the 1995 RRC with 4.2l engine. It's capable of being integrated into the MSD system.

I'm busy for the next couple of weeks, but will try to get everything installed and when it's done, attempt to make a video of the installation and test drive. I'm really looking forward to this and hope it turns out running not only better than the stock setup, but reliable! Getting stranded is starting to get old! ;-)

Bob

 

Why bother with the msd module? A delco brand ICM in that distributor will be the most reliable. I dont know what DUI ships, I wouldnt be surprised if its a no name alibaba brand ICM. Easy to swap out for a delco. Use real heat sink paste too, not the silicon grease they include in the box.
No need for tach adapters either with the stock hei module

 

I appreciate your position, but if I can get more reliability with bolt-on tech that requires no cutting, drilling or machining of my engine, I'm going to try it. If it turns out to be crap, then it will be a lot like OEM, won't it?

 

I am running an HEI dizzy with integrated coil in my 95 Disco 1. Best mod ever. Completely waterproof and the motor runs a lot better with it. Removed all the old ignition parts but didn't have to modify the wiring at all so can flip back to stock if required.

Fitted a connector on the +12V wire that feeds the coil and used that to trigger a relay with a new direct +12V feed from the battery. Ran a wire from the HEI back to the stock wiring for the fire indication wire that signals the ECU for fuel.

Had a local engineer trim down the shaft and fit the Rover drive gear onto it. Cost me $60. Had to remove the front lifting eye and modify the top radiator hose but didn't need to modify the PS pump at all.

 

Which HEI are you using?

 

 

I can't find the original purchase info for the dizzy. It's a SBC HEI unit, pretty sure it's a Mallory or at least it came with Mallory leads that I didn't end up running. Used stock leads and changed the ends to suit the new dizzy.

You can see the relay up by the washer reservoir. Ran a feed from the passenger side battery with an inline fuse up to the relay.

As you can see I modded the top hose. Very simple, bit of tube and some clamps. Going to rework the top hose spacer section and put a bracket off it to stop it from moving around.

 

manifold clearance required. Also PS pump, but I'm not using the stock one so no pics of that.