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Not a bad oil by any means. It's one of the new FA-4 spec oils with the SA% <1.0; FA-4's have a lower HTHS compared to their CK-4 counterparts (like Rotella T6.) What is the difference between a low SAPS oil with SA% at <0.49 and a mid- SAPS SA% is ≤ 0.8? I'm guessing a ≤ 1.0 SA% that FA-4/CK-4 isn't going to mess anything up, either; my Mom's EcoDiesel Jeep has been running Rotella T6 from the beginning with well over 50k miles on it. None of these oils will harm the motor, but it's the finicky emission equipment that may or may not be equal. And some oil specs may be conducive to better protection versus say for example, and lower HTHS focusing on fuel economy.
I find it telling that Ford says to run a 5w-40 if you use biodiesel (implies any content.) I would otherwise prefer to run a 5w-40 myself and may still make the change, as that is what my 2015 Jeep EcoDiesel changed to shortly after I bought it, in large part as we later found out, to better protect the bearings. BMW started out with 5w-30 in my 2015 M5 that I used to own, but then changed oil brands and went to a 0w-30 all the sake of fuel economy, but BMW says you can at least run more than one viscosity, including 5w-40. Given the DOHC design and the roller chains, I went to a 5w-40 soon after I got it.
Honestly, a 5w-40 is probably a wiser viscosity for our motors but JLR won't/can't say that because that would lower fuel economy by a fraction of a discernable amount. Given the already under-informed dealers (especially with diesels) who like to thumb their nose at those of us folks who like to do our own maintenance where we can, when given the unfortunate (albeit deserved) less than stellar reliability reputation of the JLR product (why did I spend this much on a JLR vehicle again?), it may not be worth the hassle until at least out of warranty. Which of course begs the question, if it's better for the motor in the long run than maybe I ought to choose the product that will give me the best protection long after the warranty expires?
Not a bad oil by any means. It's one of the new FA-4 spec oils with the SA% <1.0; FA-4's have a lower HTHS compared to their CK-4 counterparts (like Rotella T6.) What is the difference between a low SAPS oil with SA% at <0.49 and a mid- SAPS SA% is ≤ 0.8? I'm guessing a ≤ 1.0 SA% that FA-4/CK-4 isn't going to mess anything up, either; my Mom's EcoDiesel Jeep has been running Rotella T6 from the beginning with well over 50k miles on it. None of these oils will harm the motor, but it's the finicky emission equipment that may or may not be equal. And some oil specs may be conducive to better protection versus say for example, and lower HTHS focusing on fuel economy.
I find it telling that Ford says to run a 5w-40 if you use biodiesel (implies any content.) I would otherwise prefer to run a 5w-40 myself and may still make the change, as that is what my 2015 Jeep EcoDiesel changed to shortly after I bought it, in large part as we later found out, to better protect the bearings. BMW started out with 5w-30 in my 2015 M5 that I used to own, but then changed oil brands and went to a 0w-30 all the sake of fuel economy, but BMW says you can at least run more than one viscosity, including 5w-40. Given the DOHC design and the roller chains, I went to a 5w-40 soon after I got it.
Honestly, a 5w-40 is probably a wiser viscosity for our motors but JLR won't/can't say that because that would lower fuel economy by a fraction of a discernable amount. Given the already under-informed dealers (especially with diesels) who like to thumb their nose at those of us folks who like to do our own maintenance where we can, when given the unfortunate (albeit deserved) less than stellar reliability reputation of the JLR product (why did I spend this much on a JLR vehicle again?), it may not be worth the hassle until at least out of warranty. Which of course begs the question, if it's better for the motor in the long run than maybe I ought to choose the product that will give me the best protection long after the warranty expires?
The issue with the ecodiesel and the hard to find spec of their oil was due to the Lu rication of its turbine. They went with the rotella for fuel efficiency. The engines kept blowing because of software programming where it shifted too early causing high torque and low RPMs and lugging the engine which caused the main bearings to go. Not a single person that got the GDE tunes has that issue. You could instantly feel it drive better.
The issue with the ecodiesel and the hard to find spec of their oil was due to the Lu rication of its turbine. They went with the rotella for fuel efficiency. The engines kept blowing because of software programming where it shifted too early causing high torque and low RPMs and lugging the engine which caused the main bearings to go. Not a single person that got the GDE tunes has that issue. You could instantly feel it drive better.
They didn't go to Rotella T6 for fuel efficiency, it's a CK-4 as opposed to FA-4; it's in the HTHS and the FA-4 is the fuel economy version. They went to a 5w-40 as a stop-gap measure until they could further figure out how to stop certain engines from grenading. I had a GDE tune on my 15 WK2 Jeep and from the onset as well as the 16 WK2 Jeep my mom still has. I'd be curious how their EPA certified version compares to the original hot tune. Would love if I could get something like that on my L462 D5. Celtic Tuning may be close but the problem is the market is very small for Td6 L462's.
08-04-2020, 09:16 AM
