As said, auto start/stop is designed to help with government mandated mpg requirements more than anything.

 

Please see attached file describing the VQM and Battery.
It shows that there are 3 connections to the VQM: I believe it is the signal connector that some of us has disconnected.
Two power connectors:
A primary battery feed connection from the Battery Junction Box (BJB) via a 60 A fuse

A power output connection to the Rear Junction Box (RJB).

An additional connector to provide electrical connection to the following: Ignition signal from the BCM/GWM assembly

Crank signal from the starter motor relay located in the Engine Junction Box (EJB)

Status and diagnostic messages to the BCM/GWM assembly via the Local Interconnect Network (LIN) bus

Ground.
The VQM supplies a constant voltage during an engine restart for the following:

The Instrument Cluster (IC)
The infotainment system components - Depends on equipment
The Rear View Mirror (RVM) - If equipped
The Parking Assist Control Module (PACM) - If equipped
The Rear View Camera (RVC) - If equipped
The left and right Blind Spot Monitoring Control Module (BMCM) - If equipped.
The VQM has 2 modes: A Bypass Mode and a Boost Mode

Bypass Mode:
Bypass mode is the Voltage Quality Modules (VQMs) normal operating mode. In this mode the power from the primary battery to the voltage sensitive loads passes through on the VQM without any intervention. The VQM can support 600 W of continuous power in bypass mode.

Boost Mode:
During a warm engine restart a hardwired connection from the starter motor relay provides the crank signal to the Voltage Quality Module (VQM). At this point the VQM switches into boost mode, and activates the Direct Current (DC) - DC converter. The DC - DC converter maintains a constant output voltage between 11 V and 14 V (depending on the input voltage) to the voltage sensitive loads for five seconds. The VQM can support 450 W of continuous power in boost mode. After the engine has restarted, and the voltage at the battery terminal will ramp up, the VQM returns to bypass mode.



I'm not an automotive electronics engineer but while I don't argue that disconnecting this 3rd connector, the signal connector, might disable the auto stop/start as desired, I'm not certain that disconnecting this connector might be affecting other circuits that require the quality voltage signal that the VQM provides.

 

Thank you for a great document. My summary:
VQM module (that Signal cable we disable) is needed to power with constant 12v most of the car during the Temporary stopped (via Auto Start/Stop) engine ONLY. While Car needs power but generator is not running. So auto start/stop is actually also bad for the car battery as loads can be significant when you are running AC, lights, cabin ventilation, engine fans, music, electric power wheel, all from the battery and then when you release the brake pedal on top of all the starter should kick in. What a Terrible idea. They just want car to run max 100k and get to scrap yard so you have to purchase new one. No one, except us - consumers, needs long lasing cars anymore. It is not profitable for business and consumerism economy.
If engine is running VQM is not engaged or used in any way.
When we disconnect Signal cable, BCM/GWM (one of car computers) cant engage VQM and dont do auto start/stop
It was tested already over few years by RR and Jags owners and no one report any issue so far.

 

You may be correct.

 

Excellent find chouck!!
Need to check it out soon.

 

I gotta say...Instead of screwing around with all this...I now have a habit when I buckle my seat belt I reach over with the same motion to hit the disable button and normal ride hight while I'm there....Problem solved.

 

I’d like to disable mine but first I’m trying to get into the habit to do it when I buckle up. Not automatic yet though. But I don’t drive it every day or even most days and right now it’s almost never.

 

I am glad we "can" disable it. The 2020 Discovery Sport loaner could not be shut off and was so touchy it would die the "second" Terri came to a stop. When actually parking, it would shut off so soon that it appeared to interfere with even getting the PARK button on the shifter properly engaged. Lots of CLUNK lunging forward or backward when she would get back in it.

 

I like to have the ride height at normal as soon as I begin driving, My driveway is a little rough and it tends to bounce a bit before I get to 5 mph.

 

I don't think that's normal for a Disco Sport. I had one as a loaner for a few days and it did not act like that.