Crossbars for factory roof rail?
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 943
Likes: 309
From: Colorado
Note that the factory crossbars sit at a fixed distance from from each other front to back because they have a pin on each foot that enters a small hole in the inner side of each rail.
You can look at your rails to see where this hole is.
You may be able to move them further apart if desired by drilling new holes in the rail if you are comfortable doing that but first measure the distance between rails at the crossbar locations to make sure the crossbars are long enough - the rails are not parallel to each other.
I don't recall the length of my factory crossbars to see how far they can be relocated.
They aren't like Thule or Yakima where the crossbars pass through the feet and are longer than what you need.
One think I do like about Thule or Yakima crossbars is it's easier to tie down an object to the crossbar where it protrudes outside the rail.
This is offered as thoughts to consider.
You can look at your rails to see where this hole is.
You may be able to move them further apart if desired by drilling new holes in the rail if you are comfortable doing that but first measure the distance between rails at the crossbar locations to make sure the crossbars are long enough - the rails are not parallel to each other.
I don't recall the length of my factory crossbars to see how far they can be relocated.
They aren't like Thule or Yakima where the crossbars pass through the feet and are longer than what you need.
One think I do like about Thule or Yakima crossbars is it's easier to tie down an object to the crossbar where it protrudes outside the rail.
This is offered as thoughts to consider.
Overlanding
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 15
Likes: 1
Note that the factory crossbars sit at a fixed distance from from each other front to back because they have a pin on each foot that enters a small hole in the inner side of each rail.
You can look at your rails to see where this hole is.
You may be able to move them further apart if desired by drilling new holes in the rail if you are comfortable doing that but first measure the distance between rails at the crossbar locations to make sure the crossbars are long enough - the rails are not parallel to each other.
I don't recall the length of my factory crossbars to see how far they can be relocated.
They aren't like Thule or Yakima where the crossbars pass through the feet and are longer than what you need.
One think I do like about Thule or Yakima crossbars is it's easier to tie down an object to the crossbar where it protrudes outside the rail.
This is offered as thoughts to consider.
You can look at your rails to see where this hole is.
You may be able to move them further apart if desired by drilling new holes in the rail if you are comfortable doing that but first measure the distance between rails at the crossbar locations to make sure the crossbars are long enough - the rails are not parallel to each other.
I don't recall the length of my factory crossbars to see how far they can be relocated.
They aren't like Thule or Yakima where the crossbars pass through the feet and are longer than what you need.
One think I do like about Thule or Yakima crossbars is it's easier to tie down an object to the crossbar where it protrudes outside the rail.
This is offered as thoughts to consider.
4wd Low
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 14
Likes: 7
I have the Front Runner and I quite like it. For context, I just completed a 3k mile round trip to the east coast and back over the holidays with it on.
-popping the caps off is, yes, a pain. And I don't think there is really a way to do it without breaking the tabs that hold them in. In fact, I think I broke three of the four. I, too, was concerned about this in the beginning. However, the caps are just plastic and if you removed the rack and wanted to replace them it would be easier to just buy new caps.
-with the caps removed and "innards exposed" there is no chance for water ingress. If you look closely there are drain holes in the roof rails and the "sockets" into which the bolts go are sealed.
-with the rack on I feel like I saw about a 2-3 mpg hit. And mine is a diesel. The biggest hit is when it's windy. The Disco isn't as slippery through the wind with the rack. Noise is also noticeable. Not crazy, but it's there. Also, in windy conditions it can get more noisy and the vehicle feels like it gets pushed around quite a bit more. However, I've always found the Disco to get pushed around anyway in crosswinds.
Hope this helps.
-popping the caps off is, yes, a pain. And I don't think there is really a way to do it without breaking the tabs that hold them in. In fact, I think I broke three of the four. I, too, was concerned about this in the beginning. However, the caps are just plastic and if you removed the rack and wanted to replace them it would be easier to just buy new caps.
-with the caps removed and "innards exposed" there is no chance for water ingress. If you look closely there are drain holes in the roof rails and the "sockets" into which the bolts go are sealed.
-with the rack on I feel like I saw about a 2-3 mpg hit. And mine is a diesel. The biggest hit is when it's windy. The Disco isn't as slippery through the wind with the rack. Noise is also noticeable. Not crazy, but it's there. Also, in windy conditions it can get more noisy and the vehicle feels like it gets pushed around quite a bit more. However, I've always found the Disco to get pushed around anyway in crosswinds.
Hope this helps.
3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
I am looking for the Thule cross bars as well. But can you open the sunroof after you have installed the cross bars?
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 49
Likes: 12
I ended up getting the OEM crossbars because 1/ I liked the holes to line them up, and 2/ got fed up trying to figure out the right parts and lengths of Thule (it was early pandemic and parts were scarce). If I were doing it again I’d figure out how to do Aerobar Evo. That slide in t-track is convenient.
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