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In general the failed motors I saw lacked good maintenance based on the condition of the oil and sludge at the pick up.
of course almost all of the owners swore they did regular oil changes, except 1 who was brutally honest.
I can’t say wether siphoning is the culprit, but seems to be a contributing factor, based on emperical assessment.
I try to alternate in case I’m right.
Originally Posted by Black 18 Disco
I like the methodology to determine what is left in the pan after suctioning through the siphon tube. I will also give that a try at my next oil change (another 4000 miles). From what I have seen at the dealership, the lack of owner understanding and knowledge about the vehicles is a major contributor to problems. Sadly, the first owners on many of these vehicles never use them for more that what could be accomplished with a much less capable vehicle. They are buying status, not capability as the vehicles never go off road or get tested. To them the car is an appliance and ownership (maintenance) is an irritant that they will ignore until it is too late. Further, when they do change the oil, how many are running by the Iffy Lube where they are throwing whatever oil is on the shelf back in the engine? My technician suggested this was the cause of the engine issues he had noted and he was adamant about using the Castrol spec oil for the engine based on his experience with engine failures.
Sludge at the pickup will explain pressure drop and premature failure.
Both the Td6 and Si6 produces a lot of power/TQ for a relatively small capacity engine, which means more stress on the internal components. Thus the cheap old oils are probably not a great idea if you want the engine to last a long time. That is probably why JLR is so stringent on the oil spec. With regular maintenance and proper oil, I doubt there will be much sludge even if only the syphon method is used. You both probably are on the money with people either not doing it regularly (as per spec/light) and not using the right oils that will lead to these failures.
I have seen engines with 100k/200k + on them that ran Mobil1 full syn oil and the oil pan and heads still looked like new with very little deposits anywhere. The JLR spec oils like Castrol full syn will likely do the same to keep things clean, even with these long service intervals.
It will be very interesting to see how much oil is in the pan after syphoning. Will also be interesting to see what the actual pan/pickup looks like on a high mileage unit after a few years (wonder on the LR3/4 or RR if someone dropped the pan when after doing proper maintenance at factory intervals and factory spec oils)
I agree on the oils - I've been running Mobil 1 full synthetic on my Xterra since new when I bought it at the end of 1999 (2000 model year). Over 355,000 miles on the original engine and still going strong. I pulled the heads due to a leaking head gasket several years back and things looked pretty clean inside, but it did have some build up and in areas on the tops of the heads where oil settled and that was at about 250,000 miles. It will be interesting to see what we find after siphoning and draining the pans on the Td6.
Posting a short video about my oil change in case anyone wanted to see how to do it with an extractor through the siphon tube. Pretty easy and definitely cleaner than the other way
Did an oil change in a Si6 in a 2016 sport. 48 k miles, excellent service history.
Siphoned out approx 7.8 quarts.
I pumped the siphon 10 times after the first time the pump started sputtering.
Removed the drain plug and caught the remainder of fluid. I let it drain until the stream turned to a drip.
In the pain I caught 420 Milliliters(.42 liter) of oil. In this oil was a small clump of thick sludge.
Thanks for the feedback! Sounds like it’s worth doing through the drain pan, too.
Another question for all: this service was at 7K. After resetting the service interval, it says next service is at 15K. What’s the deal. 7K for first and 15K after? I’m thinking 10K...
Does anybody have the part number for the Fuel Filter Element? "Refreshing" the Fuel Filter Element is part of the first pre-paid service ...the rest is basically just oil and filter change. I have the filters, oil, and even DEF to top that off, but haven't found info on replacing/refreshing the Fuel Filter Element or what that entails.
Just finished the oil change via the extraction port, which took about 6L out. Only major issue is that the socket I had to remove the filter was too shallow & my smallest extension was too big, so something to watch out for as there are a few things in the way. No way the shallow socket was going to work as it and slipped right off the plastic cap when angled. Of course I had already drained the oil and my deeper socket was about 1/2 mile away ...short run later I had a deeper socket which had much better clearance. Just something to check before you start.
If you’re finding deposits in your oil you need to change your filter more often, not the oil. Or get a better filter.
Originally Posted by abran
First- Blackstone won’t confirm crank bearing wear, I would be looking for high iron levels.
So, for the sake of conversation, let’s say I start by doing my oil changes at 14k miles(the interval the dealer recommended).
if after 4 changes(it’s good to start by establishing a baseline) each being analyzed by Blackstone and the last 2 start to have elevated iron levels, the last being higher than the one before, I would assess my oil change intervals. At which time I would try 7k miles and see what effect that has on iron levels.
if back to normal then I could start to push those intervals to 10k miles.
At this point, the damage that has already been done won’t be fixed, but I would be making sure that the metal in my oil did not cause any further damage.
Is there a consensus on which oil is the recommended spec oil? It appears Castrol EDGE 5W-30 meets the spec but I can't seem to find the recommended oil for the 2017+ Discovery TD6. Going to attempt this over the weekend. Just called my local LR dealership and they wanted $399 for an oil & filter change. Can't see how that is justified.
Are you guys draining from the bottom after the extraction tube method? Seems like that would pull out any debris that may be settled.
