I drove my RRS today, parked for 5-10 minutes and it wouldn't start. Ran fine with no issues beforehand.

Just got it back home (towed back), charged the battery up and still no luck. The engine cranks over at a good (typical) speed. It sounded like it was going to start on 2 attempts, but just for a fraction of a second (I could hear the starter noise change).

No engine codes present.
Body control has 1 code:
B1C57-14 - Passive start ignition relay coil circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground or open (2B)


Prior to cleaning the codes, I also had the following :
B1B02-28 - Low frequency coil - General signal failure - signal bias level is out of the range/zero adjustment failure (2B)
B1BA0-66 - Excessive challenge requests of start attempt in storage mode - Alrgorithm based failure - signal has too many transitions/events (2B)
B1C57-14 - Passive start ignition relay coil circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground or open (2B)
B1D12-15 - Volumetric alarm power circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to battery or open (2A)


I replaced the fuel pump last year, so I doubt that is the problem. I removed the fuel line from the fuel rail and got a gush of fuel coming out, so it seems to be getting fuel (didn't test pressure though).

(Sorry for typo on the title; It's a 2006 RRS L320)

 

So here's the update on the RRS. Hope this helps someone in the future. The same should apply to the LR3 since it's the same engine.

Turns out that the fuel pump (which I replaced 2 years ago) was bad. In Land Rover's incredible wisdom, this vehicle as neither a schrader vale on the fuel rail nor a fuel pressure sensor. So the only way to test if the fuel delivery works is is the remove the fuel line on the top of the engine. I used a small empty water bottle and stuck the fuel line into the bottle. With a working fuel pump you should be seeing about 1/4 of the bottle fill up with fuel when you turn the key into the second position (the fuel pump primes the system before you attempt starting). And if you turn the key to Start (position 3) and turn to Off after 1 second, about 1/2 - 3/4 of the bottle will get filled up as the engine starts to turn over.

You have to remove the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump. Since I replaced mine fairly recently, the process was fairly straight forward. Probably 2 hours in total (including removing it a second time after I forgot to put the metal retainer ring on the clamp).

I also did some research on these codes:
B1B02-28 - Low frequency coil - General signal failure - signal bias level is out of the range/zero adjustment failure (2B)
B1BA0-66 - Excessive challenge requests of start attempt in storage mode - Alrgorithm based failure - signal has too many transitions/events (2B)
B1C57-14 - Passive start ignition relay coil circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground or open (2B)

Apparently they have no bearing on the starting and running of the engine. Workshop manual indicates that no action is required and that the code can be cleared.


After replacing the fuel pump it took me a bit to get the car running again. It would not start even though I was getting fuel. In my case it turn out to be the capacitor that is part of the fuel injector circtuit. I previously unplugged mine during testing and forgot to reconnect. My car would not sart with it disconnnected.

The other issue that could cause a crank / no start condition is a bad Crankcase Position Sensor. It's under the engine, behid the oil pan. I took mine out during troubleshooting and replaced it, but that wasn't the fault.

 

Thanks for this around the confirmation around the fault codes. I have a 2005 LR3 that is a no-crank/no-start and I'm getting many of these same codes.

• B1B02-28 (2F) Low frequency coil - General signal failure - signal bias level is out of range/zero adjustment failure
  ( on 13-06-2024 13:11:32 at 2710 km )
• B1B03-53 (2F) Antenna failure - System programming failure - deactivated
  ( on 13-06-2024 13:11:32 at 2710 km )
• B1C57-14 (6C) Passive start ignition relay coil circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground or open
  ( on 13-06-2024 13:10:33 at 2710 km )
• B1D12-15 (6C) Volumetric alarm power circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to battery or open
  ( on 13-06-2024 13:10:36 at 2710 km )
• B1D14-15 (6C) Interior lamps 2 circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to battery or open
  ( on 13-06-2024 13:10:32 at 2710 km )

However, GAP advised similarly that these codes are mostly expected / shouldn't impact ignition / starting.

They suggested it being a mechanical fault and suggested starting with the starter. I removed the starter bench tested it and it works fine. I then tested power cables. The constant 12V supply works great, but the other cable does not provide any voltage when the ignition is turned on. That combined with the fact that the immobilizer security light blinks every two seconds and never tunes off leads me to believe there may be an immobilizer issue or something with the passive security system. The alarm never goes off. I am also going to replace the batteries in the key fobs to see if that does anything though I doubt it. I also tried to reprogram the existing keys, but it failed. Would welcome any suggestions!

 

The immobilizer would be my guess too. I don't think it's anything to do with the key batteries though. I'm pretty sure the batteries are only used for the remote functions, and the key ID is read with RFID, not requiring key fob batteries.