Good afternoon. I went out and checked the other pins today. The recheck on 4&5 male and female came back the same (no change) with my meter at 200 which is where I’ve been checking everything. When I moved my meter to 200k I was able to get 36.6 on male side of 4&5, and 11.1 on the female side of 4&5. Don’t really know why that would change. The rest of the tests are as follows with the meter back at 200.
4&2 male = 00.4
5&3 male = 00.5
Female 4 & OBD 6 = No change
Female 2 & ABS 35 = 00.7
Female 5 & OBD 14 = No change
Female 3 & ABS 14 = 00.7
OBD 6 to Ground ( both OBD and Frame ground) = No change
OBD 14 to Ground ( both OBD and Frame ground) = No change
The rest are OBD checks
6&3 = No change
6&14 = 41.1
6&11 = No change
3&14 = No change
3&11 = 62.4
11&14= No change

 

First off, thank your daughter for her service! Air Force huh, you did some things right!

The rest are OBD checks
6&3 = No change
6&14 = 41.1
6&11 = No change
3&14 = No change
3&11 = 62.4
11&14= No change Were these taken with C2365 disconnected or connected?

Female 4 & OBD 6 = No change
Female 5 & OBD 14 = No change

I don't like these readings. There should be continuity there. Take off the left rear wheel and gain access to C0376. Check the following

OBD 6 to C0376 female 4
OBD 14 to C0376 female 5
C0376 female 6 to C2635 female 4
C0376 female 7 to C2635 female 5
C0376 male 7 to same connector male 5
C0376 male 6 to same connector male 4

Just a hunch, you may find corrosion in C0376. If you do try to clean that up and hopefully that is the issue.

 

I have let her know and she said thank you and thank you from me as well.

Now that you say it I can’t remember if I had the plug connected or not when I check the OBD. I thought I did but I’m second guessing my self. I will recheck.

I am not sure if the Indy shop will let me jack it up on there property for liability reasons. I will check. If not I will need to get it home which I want to anyway. I will let you know what I find as soon as I know something, but if I have to take it home I may be a few days since I need to round up a trailer. I will keep you in the loop.

Thank you again and thank you for your patience with me. I am fairly sound on the mechanical end just not the electrical. Please don’t give up on me. 😁

 

Sounds like I have a trailer lined up for tonight to bring it home. So I may not have the numbers tonight but hopefully by tomorrow evening. Will depend on how long it takes us to get it home. Having it home will make it much easier to work on. Thanks

 

Ok. I’ve got an update. I finally got my LR3 back home in my garage which is so nice. Much easier to work on. I was in the process of taking the back left tire off to check the connection you had mentioned and as soon as I got the tire off and opened the compartment that connection is in, I noticed a broken wire at that connection. I have attached a picture of my temporary fix( will fix better later). I repaired and put a battery in it and most of my problems went away. No more flashers, no more locks locking and unlocking. Still won’t crank, and I have not only a few errors that pop up. Suspension fault( I’m converted to coil springs), transmission fault and park brake fault, and now instead of an “E” on the transmission selector I have an “F”. I pulled the new battery and checked across pins 6&14 again and still got a 41.1. Hooked the GAP to up and got the following in the pictures below. Much less than before. I am able to clear all of them except for the 4 corner suspension sensors( coils springs), but when I turn off the car and back on they come back. Used the GAP tool and did a reset and still a no go. I feel we are getting closer.
Also the temp gauge is maxed out which can be seen in the pic, and I did not see any corrosion on the connector with the bad wire I spliced.

 

Can you check and see what modules are offline? You still have a CAN issue if you have 41.1, and that wire you repaired looks like the high speed CAN you are having issues with. I would take a really close look at that area and the connector area.

 

I will try and communicate with the other modules. I looked around at the male end of the connection and that looked pretty good other than my temporary splice. I can’t see the female wires very will but will try and get under it tomorrow and get a better look. Do you know what other wires on that connection that would be critical or causing my issues? I spliced a yellow/black wire.

 

I went out and plugged in the gap tool and everything that was listed for modules would communicate with it. The only one that didn’t have an option to communicate was the ECU. All the rest had sub categories that I could select. The ECU had no options for me to test. I did go back and check some of the other tests. I unhooked the battery and check the OBD with the ABS unplugged and still got a 41. Unplugged the IC and got a 61. I believe those were the same has before. The plug in the back I will check further on the female side tomorrow. I peeled the male side back about 8 inches and all looked good. Do the female wires on that connector go up under the passenger side floor rail to the fuse panel, TCCM, or ECU? I did get some water on that floor, but the day it quit running was a hot dry day. Just curious. Thanks again for The help.

 

The circuit you are having issues with is the high speed CAN and it runs pretty much all over the place, so yes it goes through the passenger side floor rail. The wire you repaired looks to me like it is one of the CAN wires, and that would explain why you got the readings of no change earlier. I don't like that you only don't have coms with the PCM. I would do this in this order, since you are at the connector in the back let's just check and make sure the CAN going to and through the parking brake module is ok so check C0376 male 7 to same connector male 5
C0376 male 6 to same connector male 4. If you get no readings then do the same pins on the female side just to be sure. If that is good then reconnect everything to normal, battery still out, and disconnect the PCM. Take the readings on 6 and 14 again see what you get.

 

I checked the male side of C0236 and got no change on both readings. I checked the female side and got a complete loop. Both readings were 003. Does that mean my female side is ok? I have t gotten to the PCM yet. Let me know your thoughts on that. Thanks again