Made some progress yesterday, which gave me some hope. I ran through as much wiring as I could possible see to ensure that there was not a cut/corroded wire causing my faults and came up empty handed. When I purchased it last week, the previous owner who was not mechanically inclined at all informed me that he had taken it many shops and they all told him it needed a new EAS ECU, and would run about $1,200-1,400. So going into this I knew I had some work cut out for me, but for the price I couldn't pass it up and can do most, if not all of the work myself. I had ordered a used EAS ECU off Ebay last week to see if that could be the cure, or at least see if it would change anything from the current faults I was getting to narrow my problem down a bit more. I did notice the other night that when you first turn the ignition on and all the "dummy light" go on that it illuminates all the controls on the center console, including the special programs and figured the suspension control SHOULD illuminate, even for just a second since I have the red fault, but it didn't. I checked all through the wiring and again no issues there. My Ebay ECU arrived a day earlier, yesterday, so I was able to install it, hooked the battery back up and bingo, just turning the ignition on and not starting it the suspension light was off and the selector illuminated! Now I have a fault on the new EAS ECU that pops up about 5 seconds after starting it since it's not the original and needs to be calibrated, but I think this solved the issue.

So the big question is now, I believe the EAS ECU is coded to each car, can I just get away with just recalibrating the new ECU, or does the LR dealer need to go in there and recode the new ECU to the truck? There's a European shop around the corner from me who can do the recalibration, but they were not sure they if that would clear the fault because they believe it needs to be coded to the truck. Can anyone shed some light on this for me?

 

Im almost sure the EAS ECU is VIN specific, with means that the dealer or an independent CANNOT reflash to your vehicle. You would need to buy a new virgin ECU and have it coded to your VIN.

With that said, reach out to GAP diagnostics and ask them if you buy their tool is it possible to reflash an EAS ECU. They have done it with instrument clusters, which no other tool including the dealer can do.

 

Have you checked your TC ECU? Water gets into it and the connector and causes corrosion which can cause a trans fault and all other forms of shenanigans.

 

Said Shannanigans:

 

Oh yes, I ran through pretty much every connector that I could find, both under the driver side and passenger side dash and all the ECU's, and everywhere in between-wheel wells, height sensors, valve blocks, you name it, not much if any corrosion. I know the EAS ECU was my problem since the new one fired up the height adjustment control and didn't throw a fault immediately when I started it after reconnecting the battery, only did about 5 seconds after it had a chance to realize it was not the same ECU.

My only issue now is getting it programmed. The dealer is booked two weeks out and only charges $136, even though this isn't my daily I don't want it down and out that long while I could be making other adjustments that I won't know about until I put it on the road.

 

Abran's suggestion to start with the GAP guys is a good one. They are really impressive and imo every LR3 owner should have an IIDTool.

 

I'm going to reach out to them now, thanks for the suggestion guys!

 

um. it's been said in here already, but please check your terrain response module - essentially the module the shifter runs through. I am A PRO at this - as I've left my sunroof open multiple times in my now 8 years of ownership. I've found myself in my car on xmas eve with a pink hair dryer, drying cords and plugs. The symptoms you have are virtually exactly what i had. Yes - could be wrong and it could do nothing; but - all you need is a few minutes, some patience, and some electronic connector cleaner, and it couldn't hurt to have a heat gun or hair dryer to delicately use - to ensure everything is dry. If anything, you'll bond with your car .

Disassembling all of this takes (me) about 3 minutes. It should take you 5-6. There are 5 or so connectors under their - and guaranteed they've been soaked with coffee at one time or another. While I thought i would need a new terrain response control module, i have been able to simply clean it up and bring back to life several times now.

I am having a hell of a time finding the videos on it, but youtube it or pm me. I am happy to facetime you and show you exactly how to do it -

G'luck.

(and reminder - these connectors are no where near where you said you cleaned "Every connector you could find")

 

I did open up the center console entirely and disconnected the terrain response module, all looked good, and even after reconnecting I still have no response from the suspension control. The only life I saw in it was after I replaced the EAS ECU, then it illuminated at startup, so that's how I narrowed it down to the ECU itself.

I ordered an IIDTool yesterday, so we will see what I can do with it when it arrives on Thursday!

 

Suspension fault, transmission fault, brake fault and maybe a few others??? Here's something that may fix everything and only costs about $6.
I saw somewhere in this forum that possibly brake LIGHTS might be the problem if they're the wrong kind. I just bought my LR3 at an auction and it showed these faults that you were seeing. Of course that scared almost everyone who looked at it at the auction and I bought it for $1600. Got it home, pulled the tail lenses off and checked the bulbs. Sure enough, it had 1157 standard tail light bulbs. I went to the local O'reiley's and bought the correct bulbs. Started the engine, attached my code reader, hit the reset button.... EVERYTHING was miraculously fixed!!!!! The computer didn't like 1157. I put an ohm meter on the 1157s and they read 0.6 ohms on the brake element, 2.4 on the driving lights element. I checked the new bulbs that were SUPPOSED to be there and they draw less current: The brake element reads 0.7 ohms, the driving lights element reads 2.7 ohms. Doesn't sound like much of a difference but for reasons unknown, the engine control module apparently doesn't like the slightly higher current the 1157s draw and calls it a fault while also causing a bunch of other totally apparently unrelated issues. After changing the bulbs, the suspension works normally, the transmission fault is gone and the brake fault is gone and everything is back to normal. Everyone should know this information!!!!!!