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Great write ups!
I’ve done the same jobs with the same parts and fluids on our 2019 L405 autobiography with the rear e diff.
I also ran into the same issues with the crush washers on the transfer case plugs. I found that part # LR048842 was the ticket.
I will be doing these on my 2020 Defender X here shortly and looking forward to your write up on the transmission fluid change.
Have you noticed the driveline being smoother since the fluid changes? Did you have any of the clunking going on before you did the changes? Our Range Rover had some clunking and the double flushes I did seemed to resolve the clunks on that.
Great write ups!
I’ve done the same jobs with the same parts and fluids on our 2019 L405 autobiography with the rear e diff.
I also ran into the same issues with the crush washers on the transfer case plugs. I found that part # LR048842 was the ticket.
I will be doing these on my 2020 Defender X here shortly and looking forward to your write up on the transmission fluid change.
Have you noticed the driveline being smoother since the fluid changes? Did you have any of the clunking going on before you did the changes? Our Range Rover had some clunking and the double flushes I did seemed to resolve the clunks on that.
Thanks mate.
Appreciate the info on the crush washer. AFAIK I had the correct part number but was given the wrong ones. Not a huge deal I guess, just frustrating. Having a generic selection of copper crush washers is probably a cheap and simple way to prevent any issues.
Yes. Rear e-diff definitely got quieter after the drain and fill. Clunk-free again. I think this is an item that should be serviced more frequently than in the schedule. It's the simplest of the lot as there's no armor and you can just raise up the rear to the max and get it done. Probably a 15 minute job. I plan to do it every 25,000 miles or so. After reading @sarek 's discussions about the rear e-diff It's something I'd omit from any future Defender build. Seems to offer minimal upside with lots of down.
Next on the agenda is brake pads. I've decided to bump the transmission drain/fill for a bit.
Almost 16,000 miles and just shy of 1 year old. Time for a service.
About $350 in supplies including the MityVac pump for the oil. The 8.8L nominal capacity Mityvac is plenty big. Actual capacity is larger it would seem. All parts are OEM and the oil meets the JLR specs. A simple process all told. A relaxing time in the garage.
Air Filter
The Air filter is fiddly enough. Remove 6 screws with a Torx T25 and the big hose clamp. A little wiggling to pop it off. Out with old and in with the new.
Left: New
Oil Change.
I stopped half way and poured a little oil out into a bucket just in case the 8.8L nominal capacity was too small. There was plenty of room.
Swapped out the oil filter with a new one and new gasket. 25Nm of torque. (Hand loosened and hand tightened. I will verify the torque when I get the right socket). Overall, this is the easiest oil change I've ever done. I'll be doing it this way from now on. The manual pump worked a treat.
8.8L went back in. Oil levels are correct.
10L bought - 1.2L remaining in the can = 8.8L used.
Tire Rotation
I took care of this a little while back so it is not due again.I'm getting some new tires to replace the Adventures soon anyway.
Bonus material
I finally finalized my caliper trim for my Tuffants. Just the last 1mm or so and a finer grit.
About 2mm of clearance between caliper and rim. Plenty of room for wheel weights. Over 1" on the rim.
I had started to develop a bit of noise/club lines from either the xfer case or rear diff on turns from a stop at around 46k miles.
I double flushed the front and rear diff and xfer cade with the oem fluids, replaced all plugs and washers on the second drain and fill and about 2k miles later still no more noise or clunks. I’m glad it was resolved for once this way. Our L405 I double flushed and double flushed again, and there is still a nouse, but we are thinking it may be more of a rear airbag or rear sway bar noise due to when and how it happens. That car now has 32k miles.
I will be doing my plugs in the next few weeks as I just crossed 50k miles and want to do the trans fluid later this year too.
I also replaced my coolant reservoir due to a leak at the sensor and the turbo coolant inlet/outlet pipes due to that o ring leak. Updated design o rings seems to working out so far, again about 2k miles later.
Brakes on mine seem to be holding up well even with towing a boat and car from time to time.
I had started to develop a bit of noise/club lines from either the xfer case or rear diff on turns from a stop at around 46k miles.
I double flushed the front and rear diff and xfer cade with the oem fluids, replaced all plugs and washers on the second drain and fill and about 2k miles later still no more noise or clunks. I’m glad it was resolved for once this way. Our L405 I double flushed and double flushed again, and there is still a nouse, but we are thinking it may be more of a rear airbag or rear sway bar noise due to when and how it happens. That car now has 32k miles.
I will be doing my plugs in the next few weeks as I just crossed 50k miles and want to do the trans fluid later this year too.
I also replaced my coolant reservoir due to a leak at the sensor and the turbo coolant inlet/outlet pipes due to that o ring leak. Updated design o rings seems to working out so far, again about 2k miles later.
Brakes on mine seem to be holding up well even with towing a boat and car from time to time.
Did you flush or drain +fill? Not sure how to do the former. Special tooling needed I suppose.
I too noticed a quieter drive train after the e-diff drain and fill. Quite notable. After some digging, I've decided to hold off on the transmission drain/fill till 75k. More in line with what ZF advises or at least used to advise.
Best of luck with the spark plugs. I'll light a candle for you in advance.
I have a p400 and have done the oil, engine air filter, and cabin filter changes (never as easy or quick as the YouTubers,). Anyone one know if the oil filter, engine air filter and cabin filter are the same on the OCTA. The oil is not.
Front Diff oil
