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My dealer said the cabin filter I wanted was a special order item that had to be shipped in from somewhere else. (Probably the same place I bought it from). It had a correspondingly special dealership price. Pass.
A filter is a filter I guess. No idea which is the right one now. My homework told me I used the right one but maybe not. I'd be interested to see if it's a match between your new and old.
Okay then, dumb question, where is that filter? Behind/under the glove box?
Blake flush completed a little later than ideal. 23,500 miles on the clock. 21,000 is what's recommended.
The fluid was perfect looking. No discernible discoloration.
Same process as any other car. I didn't use JLR's diagnostic tool as I don't have one. Drained and filled the reservoir before cracking the bleeder valves and flushing new fluid through at about 13psi.
The sequence is shown below.
A simple task made trickier by the fact that I couldn't find an 11mm spanner so used an 11mm socket to break the seal and an adjustable wrench to control thereafter
.
Remove the covers to access the brake fluid reservoir.
hi Gavin, thanks for the guide to brake bleeding.
I ask you for two pieces of information, before making bleed did you put the brake system in the service position? when you opened the valves on the brake calipers, and let the oil out, did you also press the brake pedal, or did you just use the system pressure?
thanks for everything.
hi Gavin, thanks for the guide to brake bleeding.
I ask you for two pieces of information, before making bleed did you put the brake system in the service position? when you opened the valves on the brake calipers, and let the oil out, did you also press the brake pedal, or did you just use the system pressure?
thanks for everything.
Marco
I don't have an LR diagnostic tool so did nothing other than drain the tank and flush. I didn't use the brake pedal. Just the power bleeder. The online instructions do mention one technician pressing the brakes while the other does stuff.
Super easy. Finding the rear hole at the end was the trickiest part but the whole thing took maybe 3 minutes. Thank you.
Old and new are the same.
I wonder what problems if any my using the other filter will cause. I did give me a match to my MY and spec. Yours is a match to what I took out of mine. I wonder if they all get built the same regardless of the ionic diffuser being present. Taking a leaf from Duff at the Nitra assembly line
I wonder what problems if any my using the other filter will cause. I did give me a match to my MY and spec. Yours is a match to what I took out of mine. I wonder if they all get built the same regardless of the ionic diffuser being present. Taking a leaf from Duff at the Nitra assembly line
It makes sense. The ionizer should be a pre-filter device that charges particles that would normally pass through a filter so they end up sticking to the filter instead.
I also imagine that this "without ionizer" filter is actually the wrong beer but they install them in every Defender anyway and I should just shut up and live with it.
I don't have an LR diagnostic tool so did nothing other than drain the tank and flush. I didn't use the brake pedal. Just the power bleeder. The online instructions do mention one technician pressing the brakes while the other does stuff.
I feel this is a small representation of how LR makes things harder (when they do not have to be) just to make us go to the dealer to do stuff. The whole process of dropping the glove box, made me compare to changing the cabin filter in my wife's 4runner and boy Toyota make this much simpler. Open the glove box, empty it, door in the back of the glove box, open it, pull the tray, change filter, close door, put all your junk back, close glove box. Done in 2 mins.
