Replaced the injector o-rings on our 04, during rebuild, and it has an incredibly clean idle. Like mentioned, tbese things are getting old...and o-rings definitely have a life cycle.

 

I found online there was a Land Rover Technical Procedure #86/01/05/NAS to drill a 6mm hole to drain water from inside the license plate lamp if the left hand lamp lens was discoloured. I discovered my lens was discoloured months ago so I replaced it. 6mm is a very big hole so I drilled it out with a 4mm bit instead. I figured if water ran out of it, I’d up it to the noted 6mm bit.
No water ran out so I’ll keep the 4mm drain hole that way.

 

Finally after sitting for 2 months I put back together all the parts for my V8 top end rebuild. It was time to test out the two new coil packs, the remanufactured Bosch injectors, the 10mm HT leads I built and the new NGK spark plugs. One turn of they key and Myrtle came back alive!!!!

So far no fuel leaks, no oil leaks, no coolant leaks, no fault codes or misfires on the Nanocom and stall test good to go @ 2230RPMs... but... now I have a PS fluid leak. FML...

Next up, fix PS leak, work on the SAI hose mod like @Extinct completed on his Disco 2, install the 300Tdi engine mounts, replace the worn tie rod boots just to get her ready for the annual MOT inspection.

 

My AutoCraft battery has low voltage from sitting and not getting a full charge since I’m not driving so I reconditioned it with a Schumacher SC-2 battery maintainer. It took 7 hours to recondition the battery.

 

It's been 11 days since I finally got the engine back up and running. So far the engine idle is smoother now and has a quicker throttle response.
Before my top end rebuild the Nanocom showed an average 3.87 of Roughness/0 Misfires for all 8 cylinders. After the rebuild it now shows on the Nanocom an average of 1.3 Roughness/0 Misfires on all 8 cylinders. I guess it’s all a combination of new fuel injectors, the HT Taylor 409 10mm leads, new spark plugs and new coils on a 19 year old V8 engine.
I'm going to drive it for 200 miles and then retorque all the top engine bolts and park plugs just for peace of mind.

As far as the heavier aluminum SAI tubing, I replaced it with 2 meters (I didn't use all of it) of 3/4" red silicone tubing and a "T" fitting per @Extinct mod. Adding this will make it sooooooooooooo much easier to remove and install if need be for top rear engine maintenance.
I haven't properly tested out the SAI pump and tubing yet. I will look into jumping a relay to turn the pump on and check for air leaks.

I finally replaced the four worn tie rod boots on the Terrafirma drag link and track rod with the polyurethane boots from Gwyn Lewis UK. Hopefully they will last longer than 6 months like the Terrafirma boots did.

*EDIT*

I found that I could remove relay R6 in the engine bay and jump the connections with a shielded wire to actuate the SAI pump.
Relay R6 is labeled in the RAVE manual as a Td5 engine glow plug relay.

 

How hard is it to replace the boots ? And do you have a link to the SAI tubing mod ?

 

Changing the boots made it easier while using a screwdriver and zip tie as shown on the Gwyn Lewis website with pictures and descriptions.... https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product/p...s-four-gl1173/


For the SAI tubing mod there isn’t a link to it. @Extinct told me how to do it through IM.
I’m going to take measurements and pictures to post on here but my iPhone 6 camera has been AFU.

 

@JUKE179r thanks I have a couple that are dying that may be the simplest solution

 

I finally took some measurements and pictures of the SAI tube mod which makes it easy to remove now:
51” (130cm) total length x 3/4” (19mm) ID hose then cut to...
12” (31cm) from SAI pump to T fitting
7” (18cm) T fitting to RH valve
32” (81cm) T fitting to LH valve
6x 1” (25mm) clamps
1x 3/4“ (19mm) T fitting

This is the oil catch can kit I bought from a UK eBay seller... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223064881865

The only issue now which I expected was the engine’s extreme heat along with the flimsy type of hose I purchased for this SAI mod. After a 30 minute ride at 60 degree ambient temps, the engine heat is making the hose very hot and spongy/pliable. I‘ll keep monitoring it during the week. If it gets too bad I might switch to a thicker walled 3/4” (19mm) HPS silicone radiator hose.








I was worried that there wouldn’t be enough air pressure from the SAI pump to get to the LH SAI control valve since I didn’t "T" it off directly in-between the two SAI control valves. Surprisingly there was plenty of pressure going to both control valves as @Extinct even mentioned to me.


I also swapped out the engine mounts for the supposedly beefier 300Tdi mounts. It was a good fit and glad I did it since the old V8 rubber mounts were cracking as seen in the pics...

 

Wow, really stands out underhood with that color! If it ever gives you an SAI code you can change the orientation of your Tee,