My wife and kids tease me about my rover horn. It’s pathetic. Lol

 

Search for 12V 130DB dual tone motorcycle horn. It's a Chinese replica of the $50 Denali SoundBomb motorcycle dual tone horn that I bought on eBay for $15.
I'm going to seal up the opened areas of the horn with black silicone to make it more water proof.

 

Crawled all around Myrtle to make sure she’s GTG (good to go... a military term) for the hour and a half drive to the LRO show tomorrow in Peterborough, England. Woo-Hoo!!!!
All fluids are good but might top up coolant with some Zerex G05 in the morning.
My internal light adjustment rheostat broke off months ago at the plastic mounts. I fixed it with some JB Weld epoxy. It seems sturdy now.
Added washers and longer sheet metal screws to the instrument cluster to hold it in place better. Not pretty but no more loose and creaking cluster when driving.




Took out the air box and cleaned it with Faboloso in our kitchen sink. I know my wife will be PISSED!!!! I also added the much needed clips that were missing.




Greased both drive shafts at the zerk fittings. I noticed after crawling under Myrtle that I now have a rear diff leak from the driveshaft bearing. I’ve been putting off replacing the Stock rear prop shaft and donut with a D1 shaft so now I got to add that to my ever growing list of maintenance actions.
After 3 years of owning Myrtle, I finally tried out engaging the CDL with a 10mm wrench/spanner to try driving in RWD only. I drove around my town of Newmarket to test it out and it seemed I had more pick up and had a lot less hesitation when driving.
I’ll disengage the diff lock in the morning. My buzz from 9 IPAs has got me ready to go to sleep.

 

Just saying....

 

I meant Double IPA. Big difference. Lol

 

I did a smoke test on the V8 engine. The parts I used were:

• 1 rubber glove
• 1 rubber hose
• any kind of roll of tape
• a 99¢ Black and Mild mini cigar... wine flavored... if that even matters...

First remove the air filter cover and MAF sensor. Then slip the opening end of the glove onto the lip of the inlet opening where the MAF sensor connected. Tighten hose clamp onto rubber glove. Cut a smal slit in one of the glove’s fingers. Feed the hose through the slit. Tape the hose well to the slit to make a good seal. Fire up the cigar, take a toke then blow the smoke into the tube a couple of times while holding the throttle linkage open. Cap off the rubber hose with your fingers or bend the hose to hold the pressure. Watch for smoke.


And for the love of God... DON’T TOTALLY INHALE THE CIGAR SMOKE! Lol

Surprisingly this smoke test worked very well. The first leak I found was at the intake manifold hose clamp. It was smoking like a pack of Winston’s coming out from the bottom of the hose. I found the clamp wasn’t fully around the intake hose and it left a small air gap.
I correctly tightened that clamp, smoke tested again and found smoke billowing out the brake booster vacuum hose fitting (#LZN100220L) at the back side of the intake manifold. I grabbed the vacuum hose and gave it a good shake in and out and found it was very sloppy in the connection fitting near the red ring.


Now I’m either going to A) replace the vacuum fitting or B) find some 9mm pneumatic hose and connect with the old vacuum hose to keep the vacuum fitting in place.

** I forgot to remove the Best4x4 PCV Mod and add a straight through barb fitting. I’ll do that and try the smoke test again this weekend.

***Edit*** my friend told me he added some shirink tubbing to the end of the vacuum hose to make up for the slop inside the brake booster fitting. Hmmmmmm... very interesting...

 

After Myrtle sat for 2 days, I had to bust out the Nanocom due to a check engine light and found...
ECU:
P0102
P0134
P0135
P0141
P0155
P0161
P0412
P0445
P0449
P1000 camshaft sensor fault
P1000 Dtml signal error
Gearbox: P1884

This is an all time trouble code record for me. FML...
i hope it’s just the beginning of the cold weather messing with her.

FYI... I found out my Foxwell NT510 can change the old VIN that was stored in the SLABS unit to my own SALTY VIN.
I couldn’t do that with my Nanocom.

 

That is a bit of a list

 

I found the 15amp fuse F2 in the engine bay was blown which triggered all those fault codes for SAI pump, all four O2 sensors, purge valves, MAF sensor, EVAP canister, and camshaft position sensor.
I replaced the fuse, reset the trouble codes, started up, drove around the block and then the Check Engine light came back on. I shut off Myrtle, checked fuse F2 again and it was blown... again.
More troubleshooting in the works.... damn.....

On a good note... I finally drilled and added the 17 inch 75lbs prop shaft to the hood/bonnet which holds very well. I might add the second prop shaft to the opposite side for more stability.

 

I would suggest starting with the SAI pump, that "should" be the most likely culprit to blow that fuse.