4 days ago, I scrapped that big @ss oil catch container I installed months ago. I mounted it too close to the exhaust manifold so it got hot and boiled off the sludge it collected inside of it.
I installed a cheaper $10 air filter element from eBay. Despite it’s cheap price and rudimentary design it’s definitely better working and in a better location.
I can now see the results of this filter keeping the sludge out of the intake. It is quite impressive and yet disturbing after driving less than 100 miles.

 

Today I did my 5K miles Air filter, oil filter and oil change.
I finally got to check the magnetic oil sump plug I installed the last oil change. It had a little bit of sludge (my 2020 word of the year. Lol) At the magnet but I didn’t feel any solid metal chunks in the sludge.

 

I received in the mail today my 8oz bottle of Captain Tolley’s creeping crack cure. I've read excellent reviews on this product.
It gets deep into cracks and seals them up to help stop water intrusion around the windshield area.
Captain Tolley - Find and Fix Leaks

 

That's an interesting idea.
Do you have any more pictures or info?
Thanks

 

Basically I removed the black plastic PCV valve in the valve cover just like you do for the @Best4x4 PCV mod. As for the hose to the removed PCV valve and the air intake manifold, you cut this hose in half. I used a different clear hose to see the air/oil flow. You then insert the air filter assembly like this one... https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F362644109322 in between the two hoses and clamp it down. Pay attention to the arrow on the top of the filter assembly so you know which way the air flows in and out.

FYI... I removed the Best4x4 PCV valve for now since I didn’t know how much of an air restriction the new filter would make.

 

Replaced both downstream O2 sensors due to the B2S2 O2 wiring rubbing on the front drive shaft and blowing the 15A F2 engine bay fuse.
Documented here... https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...ed-pics-98588/

 

I received today my Neilsen's mechanic's stethoscope (got tired of using a screwdriver for years now) and a new WABCO ABS shuttle valve switch.
I finally inspected my shuttle valve switches and the PO did a crappy job of the Option B with twisting together wires (now corroded) and black electrical tape.
I'm going to sort it out the correct way with solder and shrink tube.

 

I haven’t done anything to Myrtle in the past weeks. These rain and wind storms (Ciara and now Dennis) are too much to work outside on her so my parts are piling up.
I finally received my pair of front hubs for $138(included 5% discount) from AM Autoparts since they boasted about their 10 year warranty. We’ll see.
The hubs are made by Taiwan company Trusted Reliable Quality (TRQ) and the part number on the boxes has BHA54105 / 1ASHF00449 which cross references to Land Rover’s part number TAY100060. Surprisingly these front hubs have the indent channel for the rear hub's o-ring.

 

Still too cold/windy for me to get deep into any major maintenance like replace both front hubs and replace rear springs so I completed quick tasks...
- Topped off the engine oil level
- cleaned out the oil catch container
- found the ABS modulator's C0500 ground connector was loose due to it's connection tab was broken off
- started on the power fold circuit by installing the right side power fold mirror.

 

It's a bit irritating when working on the Disco while the wife is teleworking from home now. I constantly get the same questions from her...
“Are you done?”
“How much longer?”
“How do I make this word document into a PDF?”
“How many beers are you going to drink today?”
“Who are you talking to out there?”
“Who are you yelling at out there?”
“Is that my good kitchen towel you are wiping your greasy hands on?”

Anyway... last week I did a few quick jobs on Myrtle...
I swapped out both upstream O2 sensors to NGK sensors. Fairly easy with a 7/8” wrench.
Drained the trapped oil from the engine’s air/oil separator i installed.
I wire brushed the built up corrosion off of the 2 rear number plate bulb holders (the plastic cover for the handle is cracked letting water in) and added 2 Phillips LED bulbs.
Crawled around underneath taking note of any new oil leaks, any loose/missing hardware, any corroded areas to treat, checked both driveshaft’s UJs for condition/play and the rubber donut for deterioration. All looked good!
Jacked up the Disco and rotated the front tires since I did the rear tires last month. I was putting this off until I did my front hubs but I was looking for something quick and easy to do.
I also popped the Land Rover emblem out of the rear door’s plastic cover to lube inside the handle linkages since it’s been sticking for some time now.

This past week...
I started pulling the SAI plumbing to get to the coil packs and ignition wires to swap them out. Found out the coil pack bracket had only one 9mm bolt out of the 4 bolts holding it down. it was loose and flopping around. Glad I found that!
I checked the condition of all the spark plugs and they all looked fairly good except for 4 of them. One had the ceramic cracked and 3 had gaps of +.050". I can't remember who mentioned it on the forum about spraying pressurized air into the spark plug holes before removing the spark plugs. That was a great idea! All kind of crap was blown out of there which could have ended up inside the cylinder once I removed all 8 spark plugs.
I pulled all the spark plug wires and laid them out next to the red 10mm Taylor 409 wires that I will be modifying and installing. I bought them off of a friend for $25 who had them on his Mustang. He didn’t like the red color.
Greased both driveshafts. I don't remember my remanufactured front driveshaft being so hard to get to the grease fittings inside the double cardan. Out of the 5 total grease fittings, I only greased 3 of them. The grease fittings were pointing downward so maybe I need to rotate the drive shaft to get them on the top side pointing up. Just thinking out loud...
My chrome LR3 automatic gear shift **** came in this week so I'll shave down the tip and install that this weekend.

1 of the 2 SAI vacuum valves removed...


SAI plumbing removed from firewall...


Checking spark plug gaps. Used fuel line to not drop the spark plug on removal and to reinsert the plugs without cross threading them...


cracked ceramic...


Lined up from left to right cylinder #8 to cylinder #1 measuring lengths...


The LR3/Disco 3 auto gear ****...