My starter is mounted through the back of my adapter plate with enough clearance negating any interference betwixt the ring gear of my 240D flywheel and the Bendix drive gear.

To the right is the Benz adapter. notice orientation. I think all is centered properly. Next week I will be ripping out the R380 from my 95 Disco I

 

Rings as in Piston rings and wrist pins or what? Thanks for caution. I know ford and bmw and dodge use composites for intakes and external but I was not aware of plastics used on internal engine components if that is what you refer. I think you are replying to my recent post of the possibility of using plastics for my pilot bushing which I am hoping to be far enough on the crank that heat will not be an issue. I have a quote request for bronze material as well. we'll see what happens.

Thanks for bringing that to my attention.

 

No. ring and pinion gears set for the rear end.

 

Forgot to tell you guys I have 4 benz 300d turbo models with extra motors trans vac pumps and many other parts if you need them. I bought an old service managers collection of cars parts tools and books. Also if you pull this off you will be the first person I know to do the benz swap for under 4k. And Im glad to see your going stick shift the 300d motors will tear apart the zf auto tranny they cant handle the torque from the diesel. There was a guy who made that adapt plate and a new oil pan on pirate 4x4 forums.

 

I think the guy whom you speak of did this conversion on Defender 90 and 110's. His conversion if you are not aware is geared toward the weekend swap parts changer and they never ventured into anything but a bolt in conversion. Pretty lame in my humble opinion. they did not want to address the front diff interference issue or any other mod necessity other than motor mounts and adapter plate. they also would not directly say definitively how much spring lift would avoid the collision of the sump. Only response I got was " the research shows the cost and liability of a kit outweighs the positive" or some drivel like that. To me that is just lazy. But then again, you tell me I cannot do it, by god I will find a way and make it better than any other out there short of going with the garbage 300dti bolt up rover engine mod less the mount placement. But then again that costs more than a 98 or even a 2004 disco used unless you live in the UK or you have import contacts that will not rape you because of the rarity of the 300TDI in the states.

Welcome again to this thread and landroverforums!

 

You have got to be kidding. WHO DOES THAT? lol it is very laughable that a gear drive subject to variant torque pressure and rear drive no less would ever expect to hold up made of plastics. Perhaps if it were a 4wd or awd where the front and rear were sharing the drive force and it was used soley in a highway or static speed situation... but certainly not in a extreme demand situation as stop and go or dare I suggest an off road application????????

 

No this guy builds the adaptor for Discovery's he has a mill and makes them out of billet. What you are doing will work I think you have to mill out the area a little for the starter if I remember right. Here is a thought try Kevlar you can by it pretty cheap now or pressed carbon both can with stand a load of heat and stress. Ford is going to start making some engine blocks out of pressed carbon.

 

I get he made a kit but what about the sump clearance of the front diff? To ultimately escape that, a 4 - 6 inch spring lift is an additional cost plus mod of suspension / steering components to keep alignment and there is the consideration for the prop shaft angle. you can get away with 3" lift but stops are necessary for off road full rebound.

Yes I am going to have to mill out the area about 30* counter-clockwise from the Rover starter position to accommodate the position of the benz starter. That will be the last thing I do after motor mount fabrication.

What components for sump protection with out modification and lift?

What other mods aside from mount fabrication and placement is afforded in this kit?

I am going to finish this conversion in less than a few weeks at under 1000 with no suspension modifications save MAYBE a body lift so I can avoid cutting my cowl lip so I have access to the valve cover for future valve adjustments?

The bore for the starter is complete and tight. There was a bit of walking and egging in the process of driling my HDPE plate to accommodate the starter cone. I used a cheap 9.99 hole saw kit from harbor freight and got exactly 2 holes before the counter hold pin's shot off and were no where to be found. I got my money back... in hindsight, I would have prefered to get an IRWIN kit for 65.00 but in the end I wasn't working with a lot of money.The only issue I have right now is egging out my bolt / mounting hole so I can get my other bolt to thread straight into the starter. The starter is threaded for those who don't know BTW.


Interesting and promising material alternative.

 

just a head up. for those whom are lurking, those of you that have been with me and those that just joined, I will be consolidating all picks, steps, issues overcome as well as providing all materials used in a new thread. I can't promise that I will give KEY measurements for integral components. What I can promise beyond a shadow of a doubt that I have the formula to make this Mother F*CKER work for under 1000. In appreciation and consideration for those who have been interactive through my build process, as long as it has been, I will continue posting my findings of what works. For those lurking, you can get the same info but at some point you have to come out of the wood work and ask some stuff or say " I didn't think you would do it.... but you did!!!!" is that delusions of grandeur or drama for a happy ending we learned growing up on Disney or watching Little House or Brady Bunch or even Gilligan's Island? BTW I am a MaryAnne guy and Not a Ginger guy, It will be a SUPER CLEAN thread with start to finish with opportunity for ANY of you types out there to PM me and get my help after you have been through the hoops and have done all the research you have been able to do and with ANYTHING not covered in my build thread.

I wish I could change my name to the Village Idiot.... Who is your alter ego?

 

What's the progress been on vacation and work trip. This topic came up on vacation is why I ask. Also a cheap lift would be spring spacers. Sorry to say this but auto zone sales them pretty cheap Mr. Gasket brand. You can get your 2 inch out of that as long as your springs are good. I tried to look for the post on pirate 4x4 but it looks like it was removed.