ABS = annoying..yeah
#13
Pull the 30A ABS pump fuse from under the hood and you will have 4 channel manual brakes.
Removing that fuse takes the modulator out of the equation, it is a 2 min job.
The ABS modulator is this...
http://www.roverlandparts.com/discov...odulators.aspx
Its what all the brake lines come out of.
It is what pumps the brakes for you, there are valves inside it that open and close to prevent wheel slip.
By cutting brake pressure to wheel "A" you are releasing the brake at that wheel and letting it return to moving, a moving wheel is not locked up.
When a wheel locks up you loose all traction and thus you skid.
In normal mode brake fluid flows freely through the modulator, when a wheel sensor detects wheel slip it stops brake pressure at that wheel.
The easiest and cheapest thing to do is just remove the ABS pump fuse, no ABS pump, no ABS, just 100% normal old school brakes the way God intended.
If you remove the ABS fuse from used the dash all you do disable the wheel sensors, the ABS pump can still act up.
So leave that fuse and remove the one from under the hood, the ABS pump fuse.
30amp, under hood fuse box.
Removing that fuse takes the modulator out of the equation, it is a 2 min job.
The ABS modulator is this...
http://www.roverlandparts.com/discov...odulators.aspx
Its what all the brake lines come out of.
It is what pumps the brakes for you, there are valves inside it that open and close to prevent wheel slip.
By cutting brake pressure to wheel "A" you are releasing the brake at that wheel and letting it return to moving, a moving wheel is not locked up.
When a wheel locks up you loose all traction and thus you skid.
In normal mode brake fluid flows freely through the modulator, when a wheel sensor detects wheel slip it stops brake pressure at that wheel.
The easiest and cheapest thing to do is just remove the ABS pump fuse, no ABS pump, no ABS, just 100% normal old school brakes the way God intended.
If you remove the ABS fuse from used the dash all you do disable the wheel sensors, the ABS pump can still act up.
So leave that fuse and remove the one from under the hood, the ABS pump fuse.
30amp, under hood fuse box.
#15
Calebbo-what happens when the DI ABS "fails" is that it will not let you apply the brake pedal. You press the pedal and it pushes back against your foot and makes a ratcheting noise.
The noise is normal for a working ABS system, it makes lots of noise so you know its working.
However when a wheel speed sensor fails, or the ABS modulator goes bad the ABS system will over work for no reason and you will not beable to stop.
Usually you can correct this by completely letting off the brake pedal and then trying to stop again.
#16
Old school braking is pumping you brakes to stop right?
but when do you apply that? Because I don't think pumping your brakes every time to stop (ex. a stop sign) is very effective. I've tried once in awhile in the middle of the night and half the time I end up in the middle of the 4 way stop intersection haha. But then again I don't know how to do it properly. Is it like mashing your brakes, release, mash?
but when do you apply that? Because I don't think pumping your brakes every time to stop (ex. a stop sign) is very effective. I've tried once in awhile in the middle of the night and half the time I end up in the middle of the 4 way stop intersection haha. But then again I don't know how to do it properly. Is it like mashing your brakes, release, mash?
#17
When my wife almost rear ended a school bus the ABS pump fuse came out.
That was over 2 years ago.
Calebbo-what happens when the DI ABS "fails" is that it will not let you apply the brake pedal. You press the pedal and it pushes back against your foot and makes a ratcheting noise.
The noise is normal for a working ABS system, it makes lots of noise so you know its working.
However when a wheel speed sensor fails, or the ABS modulator goes bad the ABS system will over work for no reason and you will not beable to stop.
Usually you can correct this by completely letting off the brake pedal and then trying to stop again.
That was over 2 years ago.
Calebbo-what happens when the DI ABS "fails" is that it will not let you apply the brake pedal. You press the pedal and it pushes back against your foot and makes a ratcheting noise.
The noise is normal for a working ABS system, it makes lots of noise so you know its working.
However when a wheel speed sensor fails, or the ABS modulator goes bad the ABS system will over work for no reason and you will not beable to stop.
Usually you can correct this by completely letting off the brake pedal and then trying to stop again.
#18
#19
pulling the fuse under the dash will give you a CEL (forget the code but it comes up as rough road line fault or something like that) basically the OBD 2 system monitors the ABS wheel sensors and thinks something is wrong if you are driving and the wheels aren't moving (I know crazy right? lol) just do like Spike said and pull the under hood fuse labeled ABS pump or whatever it is.
#20
You don't always get the CEL if the ABS is disabled on an OBDII. But if you have emissions you definitely want to read your codes before taking it in, in case there are any that haven't triggered the CEL yet.
You might have to reinstall the fuses before you get your emissions test. I had to on our '97.
My '95 is getting re-plumbed without the ABS.
You might have to reinstall the fuses before you get your emissions test. I had to on our '97.
My '95 is getting re-plumbed without the ABS.