Anything I need to know about doing a front wheel bearing?
I bought this kit:

SKF Wheel bearing kit.
Anything else I will need or any helpful hints? The repair manuals I have say it needs to be shimmed and such but a Land Rover tech told me not to worry about it and it's pretty straight forward to just replace the bearing??
Thanks guys!

SKF Wheel bearing kit.
Anything else I will need or any helpful hints? The repair manuals I have say it needs to be shimmed and such but a Land Rover tech told me not to worry about it and it's pretty straight forward to just replace the bearing??
Thanks guys!
The only thing I could think of, which is a maybe, is the lockwasher. It is re-usable a few times, so as long as its still decent and not all buggered up, you shouldn't need a new one.
I don't know of any shims in the hub/wheel bearing area. The only ones I can think of close are on the axleshaft, between the c-clip and drive member. But that shouldn't change any nessesitating new shims.
To remove the hub, the brake caliper has to come off. Some people remove the brake line to remove the caliper. But to save time bleeding brakes,etc, I remove the upper swivel pin bolts(17mm) and remove the brake line and bracket with the caliper and hang it with wire on the coil spring.
I don't know of any shims in the hub/wheel bearing area. The only ones I can think of close are on the axleshaft, between the c-clip and drive member. But that shouldn't change any nessesitating new shims.
To remove the hub, the brake caliper has to come off. Some people remove the brake line to remove the caliper. But to save time bleeding brakes,etc, I remove the upper swivel pin bolts(17mm) and remove the brake line and bracket with the caliper and hang it with wire on the coil spring.
Last edited by kenk; Sep 26, 2010 at 09:22 PM.
No shims in the D1 hub, though there is one in the front under the axle circlip but I never change them.
If you off-road I wouldn't use that seal on the right, they suck for keeping crap out of the hubs. RTC3511 is the way to go.
If you off-road I wouldn't use that seal on the right, they suck for keeping crap out of the hubs. RTC3511 is the way to go.
Do you have the big socket for removing the nut holding it all in place?
Last edited by Mark G; Sep 28, 2010 at 10:04 AM.
Yeah, I was going to say the same thing. I've gotten lucky to get them off with a pliers before, but wasn't easy and chewed up the nut a lot. But that's only if it's not very tight. I made a socket from a piect of exhaust tubing, welder, etc. Best to just buy one for like $20 from roverparts. You won't just go into any store and get one. You could spend 1/2 day searching. Inspect your brakes too, and rotors prior to doing the job. Get the rotor turned or replaced if it needs it. That's THE best time to do your brakes if they are so-so.
The LR rotors supposedly are not made to be turned.......
Rovers North has a rotor and pads kit for approx 100 bucks per axle that uses Mintex pads and ProLine rotors, I have those all around, can't beat the price as far as I am concerned. They have the socket for removing the hub nut and the lockwashers as well.
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