Checked fuses and found a bad fuse in the satellite 1 #1 fuse which is the anti theft alarm Did not make any difference in starting the truck.
Noticed the back side of the ignition switch moves around a lot when you move the wires. Replacement switch did not make it yet. I got a large box with the light lens for the drivers side fender. Almost didn't find it in the box. Not sure why didn't get the ignition switch..have to call on Monday.

 

looking through some older posts, I saw one that mentions a 5 second delay when turning the key to the start position, and the check engine light not turning on, which is what mine is doing. It said the gems is not talking to the rest of the truck and the fix is to replace it. I got the old one out and the bottom 1/3 is rusted badly on the cover, and the bottom edge is corroded with the white stuff. As I recall, there is a drain hole on the ECU and it looks to be almost closed off from corrosion. Working on getting a replacement one.

Looks like I have multiple problems...

 

Make sure you get the correct ECU for your setup. Either Non AEL or AEL equipped. If you have a small round evap canister = Non AEL, or if you have a large black square like evap canister = AEL. You can run the AEL ECU, but you'll toss emission fault codes because it's looking for the sensor in the AEL fuel pump.

 

1998 and up used the AEL, 1997 and older had the non-ael. 1997 could be either way. Mine (1997) did not have the AEL, the 1999 does.

Will I need to have it flashed with the VIN of my truck?? never replaced one before.

 

Yep when you mentioned 97 that's why I wanted you to verify as it was a split year with Non AEL or AEL. As long as the ECU is for the proper setup, and your alarm box is already enabled it should be plug n play. Just be absolutely certain the ECU comes from a D1. Earlier P38's GEMS based used the same ECU, but it had different chips in it and it was programmed differently. I'm pretty sure you can make an ECU out of a P38 work if you had access to a T4 to program it, but if not make sure it's from a D1.

I've replaced several ECU's and only 1 required to have the green alarm box paired to it. Most online ECU's for sale usually come with a paired green alarm box as they pulled them from the same vehicle and sell them as a pair. My local LKQ just got in a 97 D1, but I couldn't tell if the D1 was Non AEL or AEL from the pics. Usually at scrap yards your looking at 35.00-50.00 untested (I remove the cover and check for corrosion personally), and online they're anywhere from 50.00-250.00.

 

ordering the Engine ecu, I used the part number off the unit on the truck. Same with the green box. I should be OK.

The '97 is the truck I am currently using as my daily driver and has just over 200K miles on it. Been driving it for 7 years since I rescued it. When I got it, I pulled it home about 5 miles with a tow strap.

Good information, Thanks!

 

My XD when I bought it a year ago would NOT run properly at all upon a cold start. It would surge idle wise, and if you drove it at 20MPH or less it would just cut out. Then I figured out if the HVAC was on (had to fix that when I first got it as it hadn't worked in 6 years due to a bad HVAC switch at the control head), and I unplugged the VSS it would run fine. Even if you laid under the D1 and simply plugged in the VSS you could hear it instantly start to misfire and run like crap. I checked countless sensors, and my main clue was nothing worked at all on the OBD2 port. Not a T4, Autologic, Lynx, or even my scangauge II. It would just time out comm wise. I had a spare P38 ECU laying around from years ago so for testing purposes I plugged it in. Instantly I could read codes thru the OBD2 port. Now my XD is a rust bucket so when I removed the plastic cover over the ECU I was not shocked when I was looking at the ground under it.... The ECU was badly rusted on the outside, so I tore it open to find about 12 main traces completely eaten thru. I searched for about 3 months and I finally tracked down a 96/97 Non AEL ECU, and I slapped it in, reset the adaptive settings and it ran like a new vehicle!!

I even took it 6.5hr away to the 2019 HCRR event and it did excellent. I haven't been driving it recently as it started leaking coolant from the back of the engine. Not sure if it's a blown HG or upper gasket on the intake, but she's parked for now. However it still runs like a dream.

So who knows what traces got messed up in yours and the side effects of what it's causing. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

You don't have to have it flashed with your VIN (changing the VIN is an optional thing).
BUT you do need to have it in Security Learn Mode to sync up with your current alarm box.

 

It'll basically be a 50/50 shot on it being PNP with your current alarm box or needing to be paired. I've probably swapped out 10 ECU's on D1's with only one needing to be paired.

 

Whenever i sell them, I flash them into SLM before sending them out. I'm assuming most shops would as well.